Thurso East:
The highlight of Scotland’s ‘Norse Shore’, this reeling right-hander nestled in the shadow of brooding battlements, is a Celtic case-study in topographic perfection. The smooth, kelp covered slab-stone reef at the mouth of ‘Thor’s River’ condenses and converts the raw power of Arctic swells rolling into the bay – with more east in it, the wave walls, but with more west, it transforms into a dark, cavernous pit up to 100m in length. Having been spat into the channel, the gentle rip carries you back to the peak with little effort. The lip is marbled trademark brown with run-off from the peaty Caithness moorland and this influx of frigid water means that even in the summer a 4/3 is advisable and in winter, gloves, boots and hoods are essential. Likened to a cold water Nias and discovered in the same year.
Brims Ness:
If there is no surf at Brims Ness, there’s no surf anywhere on the north coast. Period. It’s not by chance that the seafaring Viking’s named this low lying headland ‘Surf Point’; the reef here Hoovers up any passing swell from the deep Atlantic waters, before spitting it back out onto the shallow, slate shelf to form the super fast, barreling right known as the Bowl. But be warned, hitting the bottom here can mean a knock to your confidence or your person, hence many regulars wear a helmet. With a small takeoff zone, it only takes a few people to make a crowd. Looking seaward, to the right sits the Cove, a less critical but still hollow right-hander, which allows time for a couple of decent maneuvers before leading into a channel. Further right still, the Point delivers long walling lefts that hold a larger swell then either the Cove or the Bowl. Access is through a farmyard so park respectfully.
Melvich:
Traveling from east to west, Melvich is the first of Sutherland’s river fed sandy coves, a clear demarcation from the reef-fringed topography of Caithness. Because of this Melvich, as with most breaks to the west, are a good place to escape any hint of a crowd. At the eastern end of the dune-backed bay, a tannin brown river feeds a sandbar that produces walling, long rights, but quality is obviously dependent on the lay of the sand. Can be epic in clean, head high surf. The odd seal will probably be your only company.
Torrisdale:
This rivermouth sandbank is one of Sutherlands most flexible and consistent spots. The quality and shape of the waves at this rivermouth naturally relies on the deposition of sand and sediment, carried by the Strathnaver at the eastern most edge of the bay. On warm autumnal and chilly winter days, long, quality rights of up to 100m reel along the sand bar, while shorter lefts peel into the rivermouth. Its distance from Thurso makes this a quiet break, but a classic beach. A series of peaks can be found along the full length of the dune backed bay as well as a more sheltered rivermouth at the western end for when huge swells kick in.
Sandisde Bay:
With Dounreay Nuclear Power Station playing backdrop to this walling left, it is a relief to those who surf here that Sandside is not the main ‘North Shore’ attraction. However when large westerly swells, are accompanied by Thurso East-wrecking westerly winds, this ugly sister’s beauty really shines through as a firing port in an otherwise unsurfable storm. Take-off from near the old harbor, and a quality hollow left will unwind all the way to the beach. Small crowds brave the radioactive warnings posted by the break.
Gills Bay:
Even on a misty winters morning, the views across the seemingly tranquil Pentland Firth to the deserted Isle Of Stroma belies the violent and turbulent nature of the sea here. The shipwreck museum at nearby John O’Groats gives a better clue to the power of the ocean as it funnels into this channel. The long, green headland is home to a reeling left hand point break that people in the know liken to those found around the Indonesian archipelago. A haven in huge westerly swells accompanied by westerly winds. But this is a break that really shines in any big swell, producing heavy, barreling lines that feel their way along the smooth, slab-stone bottom of this sheltered bay. As the tide drops out, rocks and boulders appear in the inside section. Usually quite a quiet spot as the long walk to the point puts off many who stop to contemplate the challenge.