About Ensenada Surf Travel
Northern Baja has never really been a secret spot — it’s just too close to the bulging surf population of Southern California to have remained any kind of supercore destination. It was likely first surfed as early as the ’40s, by daytripping San Diego surfers; the first documented surf was scored by Mike Hynson and Bill Fury somewhere just south of Ensenada in ’63, and the Windansea Surf Club boated out to Todos Santos two years later. Baja’s first surf contest, the Baja Surf Club International, was held from ’66-’69 at San Miguel. The contest, which was organized by local surfer Ignacio “Nacho” Cota –who competed in the ’66 World Championships –, was well attended by most all hot California surfers of the day. After the Trans Baja highway opened in ’73, connecting the top to the Tip, Northern Baja lost some allure for more “hardcore” travelers who loved camping out in the dirt to score long point waves like Scorpion Bay and Abreojos further down. But its proximity to the border and consistent surf insured that Northern Baja would never be an overlooked destination.
Editor’s Note:
This is not — nor is it intended to be — a comprehensive surf guide for every surf spot in Northern Baja. The reason is partly philosophical and partly practical: surf spots are sacred places, and deserve more than just a sentence and directions. They’re the closest thing to shrines we’ve got, and are worthy of a little examination, if only to give travelers a sense that they’re not the first ones there. It comes down to respect, really — the more you understand about a particular place, the more you’ll respect it. And that’s a good thing. Northern Baja’s cheap, close, interesting, and has some damn fine surf — go have a look around.
Ensenada Surf Crowds:
Well, yeah. See above. But with a flexible schedule, some research and good timing, you can score superfun waves all by yourself. Still, even today. There are local surfers, especially around San Miguel, who can get a little territorial (though some of the biggest idiots are expat/visiting Americans thinking they own the place). But in general, people leave their attitude at home. The same guy who’d give you stink eye at Sunset Cliffs will happily buy you a beer and a taco after a good session at K-38.
The main bummer is that many people travel in packs of like five or more; so you could be enjoying a solo session somewhere only to be joined by a group of close buddies — who may not be locals or assholes or anything, but hey: five guys is five guys. That’s less waves for you. One little trick is when you see a carload of guys checking out your spot, start catching all the worst waves and messing ’em up, so it doesn’t look worth paddling out. (And pray a set doesn’t come while they’re watching.)
Ensenada Surf Hazards:
Well let’s see: Tijuana’s sewage treatment plant spews out untold amount of mierda (that’s shit to you and me) just north of Baja Malibu; many of the coastal hotels near some of the reefbreaks south of Rosarito don’t really treat their sewage before launching it out into the lineup; there’s urchins at some of the reefbreaks; super hollow, board-snapping waves at Baja Malibu and Salsipuedes (when it’s big); giant waves at Killers on Todos Santos; the federales and local cops on shore looking for a bribe; the thieves and drifters on shore looking to liberate some of your stuff; and increasing bouts of violence that surround the border drug trade. Unfortunately, the free-and-easy experience that once defined Baja is not so guaranteed as it was …
Northern Baja’s about on par with most other developing country surf destinations as far as hazards go, except you can see the US from the top of the hill. The two most important tools you can have here are common sense and a sense of humor.
Ensenada Surf Pollution:
See above. There are people who will never, ever surf Baja Malibu because of its proximity to that outfall — doctors have said hepatitis is very possible from surfing there. Rosarito Beach is also not the cleanest. And after a rain, the whole coast becomes a kind swirling cesspool, filled with all manner of unwanted critters.
Best Surf Seasons in Ensenada:
1) Fall
Same as California — fall sorta rules in Northern Baja. Crowds start to go home, the lingering summer gloom has lifted, winds start to blow offshore… Meanwhile, south swells still sneak in under the radar and north swells have started up in earnest, often lighting up the entire 70-mile stretch of coast between the border and Ensenada. More than one San Diego State University student has missed September registration due to pumping tubes.
2) Winter
Again, Southern California and Baja are on similar weather programs — it’s not like rain clouds get stopped at the border and asked for their Green Card or anything. Winter can be wild and wooly, with places like Salsipuedes and Todos Santos able to handle legitimate giant surf, while San Miguel takes the winter lines and spokewheels ’em along the point into a wave that’s often compared to Rincon and Trestles. Not so many tourists around; rain can make insane sandbars at unlikely places (as well as super dirty water) and if you’re lucky, you could run into the much sought-after all-day offshores. Hotel prices are super negotiable, too.
A Note From Sean Collins:
Bring on the big west and northwest swells of Winter, when the exposed deepwater breaks in northern Baja will be massive from firing storms in the North Pacific. Spots like Todos Santos Island off Ensenada have experienced waves over 50 feet on the best swells during December through February. The swell size will generally decrease further down the coast of Baja, but there can be solid sized waves all the way down on the Pacific side of the southern tip of Baja on the best northwest swells. During the late winter water temps can get down to the low 50’s. Conditions can be stormy in northern Baja during the winter with strong onshore winds, and heavy rains can overflow many creeks and rivers washing out large sections of the highway for days at a time.
3) Summer
Summer is by far the most popular time to visit, as all the schoolie’s are out, it stays light later (you can be looking at blown out crowded Lowers in the afternoon and still fire down to La Fonda for an evening glass off), and south swells tend to be well forecasted a few days ahead of time. Surf-wise, it can be really good — long interval southwest groundswells light up the area around K-38 and the south hurricane swells make Calafia pump, and when there’s a slight combo swell, the beachbreaks turn on.
Summertime bummers include crowds (make that really drunk and annoying crowds, who think the pinnacle of cultural exchange is lighting off fireworks and throwing beer bottles off the side of the road), lingering coastal fog and super cold water — you can be trunking it in San Diego and need a fullsuit down here, 50 miles south. It’s counter-intuitive, sure, but Northern Baja is home to heaps of underwater canyons that love to funnel cold water up towards the surface. Some places never ever get above the high 50s, oddly enough. Suffice to say, it pays to bring a fullsuit no matter time of year you visit.
4) Spring
Most folks don’t realize this, but May is, in fact, the most consistent month for south swells in SoCal and Baja. (Shhh — don’t tell no one!). Which is good news for those not tied to a school (or a job, for that matter). Also, there can be some outstanding sandbars left over from the winter rains, so there’s always the possibility of scoring filthy beachbreak barrels, without wintertime’s hepatitis risk.
Directions to Best Surf in Ensenada:
Most everyone drives in through Tijuana — the busiest border in the world — and down the toll (“Scenic”) Road towards Ensenada. Many of the spots are accessed from the toll road; those that aren’t, are on the lower coast road south of Rosarito. Crossing the border is always a trip: the milk-fed San Diego suburbs smashing fairly immediately into the so-called Developing World never gets old, as you turn your senses to “up”, carefully going fast enough to avoid getting run over by the manic busses but slow enough to not get pulled over. The only bummer about the toll road is that there are areas where you can spock surf and aren’t able to get to it.
Mexican Insurance is strongly recommended, as if you’re involved in an accident — even if it’s not your fault — you may have to go to jail if you can’t present valid insurance. And Mexican jails — like most jails, really — aren’t a place you want to spend a surf trip. There are a bunch of places right before going over the border, and they’re all pretty much the same. If you’re going to go down a few times per year, Adventure Mexican and Baja Bound and mexicaninsurance.com have really good rates and can be purchased online.
If you’re staying north of Ensenada, having spare parts and a tip-top, tricked-out 4WD truck isn’t necessary, though you don’t really want to break down; it’s also best to gas up before crossing the border, as Pemex’s gas can cause some engines trouble. If you want your windows tinted, you came to the right place.
A Note From Sean Collins:
Be sure your vehicle is operating properly with good tires and a good spare, carry emergency supplies, some basic tools, etc. Never let your gas tank drop below half full in case there is no gas at the next stop ahead. Again, always plan for the worst situations and you’ll be OK.
Best Surf Reading for Ensenada:
The Baja Book IV by Ginger Potter
Lonely Planet Mexico
The Surf Report Vol. 19 number 7
The Surfer’s Guide to Baja by Mike Parise