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Often referred to as the most consistent beachbreak in Costa Rica, Playa Hermosa is indeed a classic setup: four miles of scalloped black sand, fairly deep water offshore, and open exposure to just about any swell except northwest, though it shows its true face on a solid south. It's also one of the closest and most accessible beaches to San Jose, so you can expect crowds of both the visiting gringo and Tico varieties. Fortunately, four miles is a pretty long way -- especially with shifting A-frames and a strong side current -- so you can generally find an uncrowded peak somewhere on its stretch.
The north end is home to most of the accommodations and eateries, as well as damn fine sandbanks, and tends to break best on a higher tide and south swell; if you like performing for (and in) a crowd, this is the place, as folks can sip beers and criticize your tube style from the comfort of one of the bars that line the sand. It's also where they've had a couple of international contests and airshows. As you head south toward Tulin, the crowds thin out -- though there's a very popular sandbar right at the big-ass tree. It's more open to west swells, and it tends to break better on lower tides. This is where you can go to escape the glamour-seekers at the main beach.
Playa Hermosa at size is a heavy beachbreak -- the call that it's Costa Rica's version of Puerto Escondido is only very slightly exaggerated. It does have an annoying tendency to close out once it's bigger than double overhead, but snapped boards, long hold-downs, and hell paddles are a small price to pay to see the background jungle from inside a green, spinning tube.
NEARBY SPOTS
Jaco, the main beach town just north of Hermosa, is apparently Costa Rica's "Surf City," but the surf is rarely good, as the sand is pretty flat and doesn't seem to ever form good banks -- which is fine if you're a fan of closeouts. If it's decent in Jaco, there's a good chance it's firing at Hermosa. In between Jaco and Hermosa are a couple bigger-wave reefbreaks, and south of Hermosa are some gentler, mellower beachbreaks.
-- Marcus Sanders
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Medium-high
S
Head high to a few feet overhead
NE
7
Sand
Intermediate to advanced
Favorite beachbreak board and mini gun
Summer
Easy-schmeasy: a two-hour drive from the airport and you're right there.
Local Tico kids have grown up quick -- they can rip the shit out of it and know the sandbars and tide better than you, so it pays to give 'em a little space. There's also a hearty expat community that surfs well, and when it's best.
Costa Rican surfers are polite but can get very amped, especially if there's some jockeying. Again, show respect and you'll be cool.
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3
3. Watch out for crocodiles at the rivermouth south of Tulin.
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There are a few places along the Hermosa stretch, mostly associated with a hotel: On the north end, there's the slightly pricey but tasty Terraza de Pacifico's Italian restaurant; just south is the Jungle Surf Cafe, which has a nice breakfast and dinner; then there's Sandpiper restaurant, with breakfast, lunch, dinner, smoothies, and seared ahi. South of that you'll find Cabinas Las Olas, and right at the south end of the stretch is the Backyard Bar and Grill, which seems to be Hermosa's most happening spot for late-night beers and pool, as well as a damn fine restaurant.
There are way more options in Jaco, including a bunch of good, cheap sodas and a Mas X Menos supermarket on the main street. If you want to spend a few colones, check out Pancho Villas for good lobster and the Wishbone Eatery for killer pizza, both right on the main drag. Lemon Zest is moderately priced and features local food with some culinary arts flair. Check it out on the main stretch in Jaco, right across from the Beetle Bar.
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Assuming you want to stay within walking distance of the surf -- if you have a car and need some nightlife, Jaco has more than enough hotels to accommodate any taste -- there are a dozen or so options that line Hermosa's northern stretch, some cheap and functional for a couple of guys groveling, others more expensive, geared toward a family or girlfriend situation, with cable TV and air-con.
On the higher end, there's Terraza de Pacifico ($100-$120/night; ph: 643-3222; email: terraza@sol.racsa.co.cr) and the Backyard Hotel ($70-$100/night; ph: 643-1311; email: backyard@racsa.co.cr; www.backyardhotel.com), both of which will stoke out the wife and kiddies. The Sandpiper Inn is a good beachfront option at $65 a night. Pura Vida Surf Villas offer condos that are great for everyone -- families and singles, longboards and short. Also ask about the surf camp packages (310-259-7789). Slightly cheaper is Cabinas Las Olas ($40-$60/night; ph: 643-3687 or 800-390-RICA; email: lasolas@sol.racsa.co.cr). Or, try Marea Brava Villas and Suites (506-643-1743; email: ike@mareabravacostarica.com). On the lower end, there's Cabinas Villa Hermosa ($55/night; ph: 643-3422) and Cabinas Las Arenas ( www.cabinaslasarenas.com/, $20-$40/night). Most all of these places cater to surfers -- have a look around and figure out which best suits your budget and taste.
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This is one of the more beautiful areas in the whole freaking world, with no shortage of outdoor-type activities when the surf goes flat. You can go on a crazy Jungle Canopy Tour ( www.jacobeach.co.cr has a bunch of info), there's sport fishing, a couple casinos in town, you can go horseback riding, kayaking ( www.kayakjaco.com), pick up a dusk soccer game (and lose), check your email at a couple different Internet cafes, learn Spanish for college credit and get surf lessons thrown in ( www.schooloftheworld.org), check out the Tres Piscinas Waterfall -- it's a wonder you'll have time to surf at all if you're not careful. (Yeah, right.)
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There's a ding repair place just south of Terraza Del Pacifico, and a few of the hotels/cabinas have rental boards, but you have to go into Jaco for a surf shop. Actually, Jaco has probably the most surf shops of any town in Costa Rica, so if you can't find it here, you probably won't find it. On the main drag there's El Surf Spot, which has some rentals as well as a grill out front; Rad Rentals, which also has some boards; Walter Surf Shop, which has probably the largest selection of new and used boards (some locally made) and gear in Jaco; Mango Surf and Skate, one of Costa Rica's biggest homegrown brands; Chuck's Surf Shop right on your way into town; and Playa Hermosa Surfboards at the south end of town, which offers local shapes as well as ding repair.
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