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Back around Ponce, to the south side of the Inlet, is New Smyrna Beach. Stay on A1A and follow the signs back through town. Even though you can riskily paddle across the inlet -- watch out for boat traffic -- take the safe route and drive around. It only takes about 30 minutes.
While Daytona is the landlubber's zoo, New Smyrna is where the beach and water explode with panicked activity. Everybody in the state -- or at least Orlando -- is aware that this is the most consistent surf break in Florida. When the whole world is flat, you can usually find a wave here. Furthermore, tourists flock to fill the miles of beach between the entrance and the Inlet, which is enough space that driving on the sand is not only necessary, it's encouraged. Be careful of the cars speeding between the dunes and the water. Four-wheel drive is preferred if you're going to stay through high tide.
The water isn't any less clogged. While there's space to spread out, there's usually a surfer at every hole. NSB is best on east and south swells with higher, incoming tide; however, it works on most anything and can actually boost the size a bit. It may be one foot along the beach, but right next to the inlet it may be three times the size. Paddling out along the jetty to the main peak is hardly suggested. These better nuggets are reserved for the hard group of locals who have spent their lives earning a cherished spot in this ruthless lineup. Unless you're willing to put in the same time and effort over a few years, resign yourself to surfing down the beach. Final thought: south swells suck here, so don't bother, and at low tide, it's not as good, as it breaks on the far outside sandbar called Shark Shallows. Then again, a few friendly fins might be a nice break from the locals.
-- Strange Kaufmann
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high
NE or E
1 to 6 feet
W
7
sand
intermediate to advanced
crowbar
fall and winter
drive on the beach, but don't park too close to the dunes or you will be ticketed
can be crazily heavy
manic to mean
7 for paddle battles alone.
3
sharks, locals, speeding cars -- keep your eyes peeled from the beach to the peak
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Driving down A1A from Flagler, a good local beach restaurant to check out is Snack Jacks (386-439-3344), complete with surfboards on the wall -- there used to be a break out front. Once you enter the Daytona area, be prepared for a teeming mass of resort restaurants, where it's hard for the locals to stake a claim. One exception is the Bernkastle Festhaus (386-255-8300), owned by local surfer Glenn Teshner and known for good food and the best beer selection in town.
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In Flagler Beach, the Topaz (386-439-3301) is a nice, moderately priced hotel just south of Z-Wave Surf Shop. A good place to stay in Ormond Beach is Argosy Motel (386-441-0630). It's an older-style motel, but it's clean, right on the beach and only charges around $40 per night. Once you hit Daytona, it's a free for all, but there is a Hilton on the ocean, or see what the web has to say. New Smyrna, on the other hand, has a few more obvious choices. Across from Quiet Flight on Flagler Avenue is The Sea House Motel (386-428-8081), and the Sea Vista (386-428-2195) is a reasonable ocean option with a pool, tiki bar and good rates. It's the choice of most surfers when staying in Smyrna for the ESA Regional Surf-Offs and other larger pro contests. There's also a KOA campground in New Smyrna (800-562-1244).
Or try
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New Smyrna, Ormond and Flagler Beaches are a little light in events, but that's OK, 'cause you've got Daytona. Besides early season favorites like spring break and Bike Week, there's always the infamous Daytona International Speedway -- for tickets and scheduling, see what they say on their website. If that doesn't work, check out any number of touristy nightspots, or the locals' favorite watering hole, 600 North (386-255-4471).
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Flagler Beach is home to Z-Wave Surf Shop (386-439-9283), and Ormond has Aloha Ocean Sports (386-673-4280), but the bulk of opportunities is further south. In Daytona, Mad Dog Surf Shop (386-761-5999) is right on A1A, owned by local surfer/shaper Bernie Crouch. Bernie runs a tight shop with that small surf-shop feel, and is one of the more feared surfers at Ponce. There's also Salty Dog Surf (386-258-0457) and Maui Nix Surf Shop (386-253-1234). Down in New Smyrna, you have Red Dog Surf Shop (386-423-8532), Quiet Flight Surf Shop (386-427-1917), Nichols Beach Shop (386-427-5050) and Inlet Charlie's (386-427-5674), owned by U.S. and East Coast champion Charlie Baldwin. There's also an assortment of shapers in the area, such as Greg Geiseleman's Orion Surfboards (386-423-0609).
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