For such a seemingly "remote" area, the food around Mal Pais is surprisingly good. Frank's Place (motto: "Hot Surf; Cold Beer; Nice People"), right at the MP/ST crossroads, still has the traditional grilled chicken and fish casados (though everything's gotten more expensive), but he's added some really fancy stuff in the last few years. The Buenos Aires, up on the hill north of Frank's, has some really good Argentinean food as well as creatively prepared seafood and desserts; across the road, the Tropico Latino has perhaps the nicest ambiance and food in the whole area, though it's of course a bit expensive; the Ranchos Ituana, about a mile north, serves up tasty Brazilian-inspired food as well as having a killer ambient sound system and barbecues on Thursday nights. Right at the main beach access point west of Frank's, the Tropicana is the closest fueling tank to the water and has good food, as well as the best view of Santa Teresa's spinning tubes. There's a Mini Mercado and a couple decent sodas along the Santa Teresa road that'll put gas in the tank for a few less ducats. For a more romantic setting and about 5 minutes down the road from Frank's (left at the MP/ST crossroads) take the lady to Beija Flor restaurant and pool lounge (ph:640-1006), which is set back in a tropical garden and serves up French-Asian-inspired cuisine.

As recently as five years ago there were only a half-dozen options in this area, but as it's becoming "discovered" more pop up every day -- it ain't Tamarindo (nor Hermosa, Dominical, or Puerto Viejo) or anything, but it could be only a matter of time. One of the nicest places is the Tropico Latino Lodge ($40-$70/night; ph: 642-0062), which is right on the beach at Santa Teresa and has eight spacious, well-designed cabinas nestled in the foliage. It's one of the more romantic places around, and, as such, it's difficult to get a room during high season, so call ahead. Down toward Mal Pais, The Place ($55-$70/night, www.theplacemalpais.com) is another good spot for the wife. Star Mountain Eco Resort ($60-$100/night; www.starmountaineco.com), just east of Mal Pais, is another good option. Frank's Place ($25-$60/night; ph: 640-0096; email: playamalpais@hotmail.com), the second longest-running operation in the area, has a few rooms in the back. Toward Mal Pais a bit and up on the hill, the very surf-oriented Mal Pais Surf and Sport Camp ($15-$50/night; ph: 642-0296, USA: 954-583-5560) is another really good option -- it's walking distance to the beach, and they rent boards, horses, and bikes as well as do ding repair and will video your surf session (on request) -- they'll even organize a ride from the airport to make it a completely brainless vacation. Right at Santa Teresa, the Santa Teresa Cabinas ($20-$30/night) is the choice if you want to be closest to the surf. About a mile north of the crossroads and right on the beach, the Rancho Ituana ($40-$60/night) is a clean, friendly choice, with four breezy cabinas (with kitchens, if you're so inclined). There's also camping right at the beach at various points along this stretch, some legal, some semi-legal -- ask around. Also try www.esenciahotel.com and then just 2 kms from the Cabo Blanco Natural Reserve is Beija Flor Resort, a new boutique hotel,($60-$120/night ph:2640-1007) with 11 spacious A/C suites and one fully-equipped villa. www.beijaflorresort.com. Also, Blue Surf Sanctuary is a boutique surf hotel and a Billabong sponsored, upscale surf school. They offer hip and cozy accommodations for surf trips and all inclusive surf packages as well.



*The area code for all of Costa Rica is 506.

Or try

This is a pretty sleepy area, with not much in the way of after dinner-type nightlife, but if you wanted to party you'd have gone to Tamarindo, right? There's more than enough natural beauty around to keep the longest flat spell occupied, though. Just south, on the tip of the Nicoya Peninsula, is the gorgeous Cabo Blanco Nature Preserve -- many hotels will rent horses or organize day tours through the unspoiled coast and tropical dry forest. About an hour southeast and over the hill is the semi-grubby hippie town of Montezuma, where you can stock up on incense or get your hair plaited or check out its nearby waterfall. There are a couple Internet cafes, one right at the crossroads and one a little farther north, where you can check your e-mail and the surf forecast.

There are a few makeshift surf shops popping up in the area -- the Mal Pais Surf Camp has boards and does ding repair; there's a little shop with rentals right on the beach in front of Frank's, and a mile or so north, the Santa Teresa Surf Shop has a few boards and other supplies. There's also a few learn-to-surf camps around, if you'd like to take up the fine sport of kings for the first time -- this could actually be one of the best places on the planet to learn, due to both the friendly nature of the rolling peaks (especially in wintertime), the beauty of the area, and its relative cheapness. Ask around at your hotel or one of the shops for the best camp/instructor.