Delmarva
The Delmarva Peninsula — Delaware, Maryland and Virginia — suffers from classic middle kid syndrome but it’s not at all unattractive or without charm. The sand-fellating jetties of Delaware and Maryland are regularly overshadowed by New Jersey and the Outer Banks; however, when a certain nor’easter or hurricane swell starts maxing out all the usual suspects, Delmarva’s thick, boxy shorebreaks can sometimes be the best zone on the coast.
The Waves
Indian River Inlet
Both the north and south side of Indian River Inlet can produce high-performance tube riding, particularly when other places are closing out on larger swells. Then it becomes a rather intense shorebreak, with any hint of swell being amplified off the rock wall for a steep drop. Plenty of neck and back injuries occur every year at this surprisingly challenging stretch of beach. Keep in mind you're usually surfing in ankle-deep water.
Ocean City Boardwalk, MD
A very consistent, very legit, very popular Delmarva beachbreak assisted by some bathymetry-stroking jetties, 8th Street can offer the same heaving, dumping, spitting lefthand tube riding experience as other Ocean City spots on NE swells — along with the same maddening currents, paddle-out denials, and boardwalk peanut galleries. And it’s becoming an increasingly popular destination for surgical strikes during hurricane season. That’s because Ocean City in general boasts a rather wide swell window — accommodating everything from NE to straight S energy — and 8th Street in particular can handle a bit more N wind than some nearby spots. It usually prefers lower tides, depending on what the sand’s doing.
First Street Jetty
It is the best of surfing. It is the worst of surfing. 1st Street is where it all happens, like it or not. For more than 30 years, Virginia Beach surfers have been corralled into a one-block bumper course that boasts every walk of life. From clueless tourists to bumbling novices to sponsor-me hotshots to grumpy never-beens, this is the place. The rock jetty traps sand and forms what is usually the best, or only, setup in town. Everywhere else can be a lake and the jetty will usually muster a surfable wave. Make one mistake on a crowded day, and the scrutinizing locals will make you wish you'd never paddled out. V.B. surfers take heckling to an art form. First Street is comparable to California's Doheny, a mushy right peeler that is often packed with beachgoers. The only difference is you don't have the option of Lowers or Salt Creek just down the road -- this is often the only show around. If there is a ripple at least as high as a jon boat wake, the gang is on it. Where once there existed a semblance of a pecking order, the lineup has deteriorated to total anarchy. The result: danger. Especially in the summer months, injuries from other people's boards are as common as tourist inquiries such as, "Do those suits really keep you warm?" Being the focal point for both surf and surfers in town, it plays host to numerous competitions throughout the year. From the Eastern Surfing Association to the military to the local shop challenges to the riotous East Coast Surfing Championships, something is usually happening at 1st Street. The ECSC is the longest running event in the world, attracting hundreds of professional and amateur surfers from around the world. During the ECSC, everyone in Virginia Beach is a surfer. The whole town is surf crazy. Fortunately, it marks the end of summer, at which time the crowds thin and the jetty is, once again, made for surfers.
Croatan to Pendleton
Nestled next to the state military reservation of Camp Pendleton, not to be confused with the one in Southern California, the southernmost part of Croatan is popular due in part to the large parking area at the end of Vanderbilt Avenue. Framed with poles and fences to warn you to avoid drifting too far south -- the nearest road within Camp Pendleton is "Rifle Range Road" -- this zone really likes SE swells like those from tropical cyclones.The easy parking access and the fact it is the closest beach for not only Croatan residents but also many in the southern part of the city, make this zone a zoo during the summer months when the surf is good. Get there early to try to avoid the crowds and take advantage of the free parking (6am to 10am April 1st to September 30th)
"We have a variety of waves, depending on what you’re looking for. When we get the hurricane swells, though, all of our sandbars light up from Virginia to Delaware."
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Delmarva, According to...
Michelle
Sommers
ESA Executive Director unearths the dirt on this subterranean Mid-Atlantic wonderland.
What makes Delmarva a special destination for surfers?
Our beaches are the closest to several metropolitan areas: Philly, Baltimore, D.C. and Wilmington, DE, are all about two or three hours away, so for many people, our beaches are a day trip. We also have Assateague Island, which has both a national park and a state park. That area allows for surfing without restrictions in the summer months, when most coastal towns have designated times to surf.
What kind of waves can visiting surfers expect?
We have a variety of waves, depending on what you’re looking for. Ocean City, MD, offers steep, fast, barreling waves while Indian River Inlet, DE, and Assateague are great places for longboarders and beginners in the summer months. When we get the hurricane swells, though, all of our sandbars light up from Virginia to Delaware.
What’s the vibe?
There's a friendly vibe all over, but etiquette should always be followed. The older generation is welcoming as long as you know the pecking order, so it’s best to let them have their waves, as you should in every lineup. If you’ve never surfed in the area, take a lesson. There are some great people here who offer lessons and know the area really well.
What should surfers bring?
You can't go wrong with a mid-length anywhere in the area, but longboards are ideal in the summer months with the smaller surf. Shortboarders love the fall and winter swells that pack a punch. And always wear a leash, as that's required at most beaches.
When is the best time to score?
Time of year: late summer into the fall. Time of day: early to mid-morning before the local sea breezes come up. And the sunset sessions can be fun when the wind lays down and the tide is right.
What else is there to do when you’re not surfing?
Many surfers are fishing when there aren't any waves. We have several awesome skateparks, too. You can also ride a cruiser bicycle on the Boardwalk in OC, and through the quaint beach towns of North Ocean City, Fenwick Island and Bethany Beach.
What’s your favorite local cuisine?
You can’t beat a Maryland crabcake offered at many of our local restaurants. Dinner down at any one of the several Ocean City harbor restaurants. You get fresh catch right off the boats that come in.
Where can people learn to surf?
Assateague is the best place for beginners, as well as the north side of Indian River Inlet in Delaware. Ocean City is okay at higher tide with the smaller waves, but that’s a pretty difficult wave to learn on since it’s steep and fast.
What are some things people should be aware of when it comes to local culture and customs?
Always know surf etiquette. All of our surfbreaks are sandbar bottoms, so if there’s a big crowd, just walk down the beach a little bit and find another peak. Surfing is growing in popularity, so if you’re going to one of the state parks in MD or DE, you have to get to the beach early in the morning to find parking.
Any other local tips?
OCMD and Delaware beaches do not allow surfing in the summer months from 10am-5:30pm, so you have to go early or wait til evening. OCMD offers a rotating surf beach that changes streets each day, but two blocks is not enough space for the number of surfers, especially those who are new to the sport. So, I always tell people to go early in the morning or just plan to drive to Assateague.
Travel Essentials
Culture & customs
Between the deep colonial history and major military presence, Delmarvans are inherently patriotic, diverse and respectful. Being the most populous city in Virginia, VB surfers have an aggressive and competitive edge, while Delaware and Maryland tribes tend to be more laid-back — and much smaller. Delaware has the second tiniest coastline in the country, a mere 28 miles, so most surfers congregate around the inlet jetties. Eastern Maryland has only 31 miles, a 10-mile strip of which comprises Ocean City, which is a summertime tourist trap like no other. Think saltwater taffy-novelty shop-meter maid-boardwalk tackiness to the hundredth power. Just south of OC Inlet, however, Assateague Island offers the most pristine environment you’re like to find wedged between the Atlantic Ocean and the Chesapeake Bay.
Local scene
Virginia surf culture dates all the way back to 1912, when local pioneer James Jordan returned from Hawaii with a quiver of redwood surfboards. Imported boards started arriving in town soon after, and by the early 1930’s local lifeguards John Smith, Dusty Hinnant, Babe Braithwaite and Bob Holland were riding hollow wooden paddleboards in the summer and road-tripping to Florida in the off-season, giving surfing demos along the way. By the the 1950’s Scott Taylor was importing balsa and fiberglass boards, then in 1962 Pete Smith and Bob Holland opened the town’s first surf outlet, Smith and Holland Surf Shop, on 19th Street. The VB Surf Festival (renamed East Coast Surfing Championships) debuted in 1964, and VB quickly blossomed into what it is today — home to one of the oldest surf contests in the world (ECSC) and the coast’s leading surfboard manufacturer (WRV), more sales reps than surf spots, and the talent-dripping, stoke-pulsing surf industry hub of the Mid-Atlantic. Contrarily, surf fever didn’t really hit Delaware until 1962 when Bill Wise, George Pittman and Bill Pike brought the sport to local lineups before Wise and Pittman opened Delaware’s first surf shop, Eastern Surfer. Maryland lifeguard George Feehley surfed in front of his Ocean City post as far back as the late 1950s, but the sport didn’t catch on here until 1962, when Wise and Pittman began frequenting North Beach and then opened another Eastern Surfer shop in 1964.
What to bring
If you’re on a blackball quest, one soft-top to rule them all. Otherwise, you’ll want a longboard for VB peelers, a shortboard for OC wedges and a bodyboard for Delaware shorebreak.
How to get there
The best way to do it is to fly into Norfolk International Airport, which is a short trot from the Virginia Beach Oceanfront or a stone’s throw from the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, which will take you up the beautifully bucolic Eastern Shore. From there, pick your jetty and go wild.
Downtime
Fishing. Boardwalk shenanigans.
Quick Tips
Travel Time
LAX: 6 hours, 30 minutes
Heathrow: 10 hours, 42 minutes
SYD: 21 hours, 37 minutes
Connectivity
Broadband is everywhere.
Currency
US Dollar.
Avg. cost of...
Cup of coffee: $3 USD
Lunch: $22 USD
Beer: $5.25 USD
Hotel room: $125 USD
Visa Requirements
Visitors may require a visa, depending on their nationality and/or the purpose of their trip.
Drinking water quality
Generally fine.
Hazards
Draconian ordinances, from leash laws to blackball.
Cash, card, crypto
This is America, the world’s largest economy, so money talks. Most businesses accept major credit cards, some probably even take crypto. U.S. dollars are still a thing, too, and you’re never too far from an ATM.
Best first surf trips.
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