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Yeah, it's true: despite the recurring chocolate box of protected coves, bulbous headlands, white sand beachbreaks and auspicious point setups, the 72 miles of photogenic shore from Ragged Point up to the Carmel Highlands behold, at most, maybe a half dozen funky surf spots.
Without fail, one glance at a topographic map of Big Sur sparks incoherent blather from the unenlightened surf-trekker who's hell-bent on raiding this rocky maze. After all, anywhere with that much serrated coastline must offer barrel after sparkling barrel, right?
Wrong.
Big Sur's handful of spots are brutally fickle and are almost impossible to figure out unless you reside in the Big Sur region. Grumpy localism still prevails, and these guys endure the lowly conditions day after day, only to get stiffed again once that dreamy, long-interval pulse arrives -- with a roaring northwest gale attached to it.
To combat cabin fever, the locals engage in a quixotic act of desperately motoring dozen of miles to the north and south, rewarded with nothing but frigid, white-capped crud. There are days, however, when it's possible to snatch a whiff of good waves at a few of the more consistent nooks, the first of which being Willow Creek, Big Sur's southernmost surf arena and a formal recreation unit of the Los Padres National Forest.
Upon first inspection, you might think that the waves that break in front of the kelp-covered, tortoise-sized boulders of Willow Creek are too close to shore for a safe go-out. The truth is, it's not as hazardous as it looks. The left-hander just north of the parking lot is usually best, although a wedging south peak can also turn on. With its majestic backdrop, frigid water and huge kelp bulbs dotting the lineup, Willow is a good place to tap in to Big Sur's raw energy. Power is the name of the game here, which means that the frequent cleanup sets should be avoided whenever possible. Hollow sections exist, but you're more apt to be surfing thunderous, carvable left-hand walls.
Willow can be the best break on the coast when the elements quit bickering and actually agree with each another, which means that it's the staple diet for a small cadre of Big Sur waveriders. If there's already a dense pack at the north peak, be a good guest and move into the overflow area to the south.
-- Mike Kew
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medium-high
NW, W, SW
chest high to double overhead
E, NE
5
boulder
advanced
shortboard, neoprene, kelp-cutters, helmet
fall
North on Highway 1 out of San Simeon and watch for the signs on the road marking the Willow Creek Picnic Ground.
Locals resent outsiders. Probably OK if you're solo and courteous.
no red carpet here
2 to 5
1
Big Sur is rumored to be rife with white sharks. Locals have frequently sighted those ominous black dorsal fins slicing through the surface, and a killer whale allegedly molested a surfer at Point Sur back in 1972.
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From four-star restaurants to homely little cafes, Big Sur has probably got what you look for in an eatery, although there aren't that many to choose from. On the cheaper end of things is the Village Pub in Big Sur Station (831-667-2355), the Whalewatcher Cafe in Gorda (805-927-3918), the Ragged Point Restaurant at Ragged Point (805-927-5708) and the breakfast-and-lunch cafe at the Ripplewood Resort (831-667-2242). Pricier is the Rocky Point Restaurant 10 miles south of Carmel (831-624-2933) and the Cafe Kevah at the world-famous Nepenthe (831-667-2345). Dinner at Deetjen's Big Sur Inn (831-667-2378) is a bit more expensive, as is anything at the Big Sur Lodge Restaurant (800-4-BIG-SUR or 831-667-3100).
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Like the unforgiving cliffs standing 1,000 feet from the rugged shoreline, Big Sur's accommodations are also an exercise in extremes. You can either pitch your tent at one of several campgrounds, or go all the way and blow a wad of green at a lavish resort. One of these is the ultra-plush Ventana Inn and Spa with 59 rooms and luxury suites (800-628-6500 or 831-667-2331). Equally formidable is the swank Post Ranch Inn (800-527-2200), offering tree-house-type lodgings and several programs designed to loosen-up the artery-clogged city slicker, including yoga clinics, massages and a gourmet cooking class. The place is unreal, but it'll gut you between $585 and $755 a night (nope, a decimal point is not missing). On the opposite side of the spectrum, there's a number of campgrounds along Big Sur. You can't camp at Willow Creek, but you can pitch a tent at nearby Plaskett Creek, right across the street from Sand Dollar Beach. See Sand Dollar "Places to Stay" entry for break and camp info.
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There are a ton of eclectic gift shops and art galleries along the highway, each peddling wares from Big Sur artisans. Sure, there are some cool things to buy for your main squeeze or your mom, but, if you're like most of us, you'll gladly skip these distractions and focus on the essentials.
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