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May 18, 2007
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Pretty much every surfer in Southern California dreams of good waves with empty lineups for obvious over-crowding reasons.
But on most days, surfers from places like, oh let's say, Ireland only hope to run into a few other bold friends who dare tolerate the icy cold surf.
A couple weeks ago, Easkey went down in history as the first female to ride a break called Aill na Searrach, Ireland's newest big wave sensation. According to Surfline's international forecasting crew, during the first week of May, a healthy looking North Atlantic low tracked eastward across the ocean from Newfoundland into the U.K., setting up a solid shot of west swell for Ireland. Easkey was there for it and she gave us her account of what went down that fateful day. --Ed |
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I got a phone call on Sunday night, May 6th, from my friend Peter in County Clare: "The Cliffs are on, you got to get down here!" I had never even seen Aill na Searrach (a.k.a. Aileens) break, the infamous big wave spot on Ireland's west coast. A crew of big wave surfers were over from Hawaii, the Malloy Brothers were flying in from California and local tow-in legends Richie Fitz, Gabe Davies and John McCarthy had all seen the swell charts and were planning a tow-in session on Tuesday. I'd seen the chart too, but even though I had to catch up with work at college, it's not everyday you get the opportunity to see Aill na Searrach break. It didn't take me long to pack up my van and head south. The night before I felt so excited. The plan was that I'd go out on one of the jet skis and have a look, up close and personal, maybe get a feel for it. I met up with Keith and Chris Malloy in Doolin and they were frothing too. They said it could be the perfect opportunity for me to try tow-ins at what has been dubbed Ireland's version of Jaws with some of the best in the world. All I had were the stories and images in my head of this beautifully dangerous and powerful wave which made it seem even more mysterious. I just went out there soaking up the energy in the ocean with an open mind and no expectations. "My legs were jelly but I didn't feel the cold anymore. I wanted to go back out and catch an even bigger and better one. I was just getting started...The first woman to ride Aill na Searrach, not to mention my first time towing-in."
--Easkey Britton
I'd never towed in before so, obviously, I didn't have any of my own equipment. After about three hours, it started to get dark and I was getting really cold. I was about to give up on the possibility of catching a wave, when my friend Dylan from New York managed to snatch a jet ski, borrow a tow-board and call me into the water. I was frozen but I thought, "What the hell, I'll never know the feeling if I don't go, right?" The straps on the tow board were too wide, I was stiff from the cold and lost inside Chris Malloy's life jacket which was miles too big for me. Regardless, I was ready! (Chris later admitted that he wanted to tow me in but was too freaked out that he might come all the way to Ireland and end up killing me.) I put my faith in my driver, the cliffs and the ocean and said to myself everything will be cool as long as I don't fall. All I have to do is let go. The first wave we towed into, I didn't know when to let go. Dylan kept looking back shouting, "let go!" But I couldn't hear him, I just thought there was no way I was letting go too soon and stopping dead at the top of the wave. When I finally let go it was amazing, it feels totally different from paddling in. Its like a completely different sport. I had survived my first attempt and was all warmed up. I wanted more. It was so addictive. I wanted bigger and deeper. This time we waited until a good set was coming, then Dylan whipped me into the first wave. It felt completely surreal. I had a sensation of the wave growing behind me as I dropped down the face. And the speed, what a buzz to have so much speed. I felt totally vulnerable and invincible all at once! I rode the wave all the way in and that was it, I was hooked. I'd never felt such stoke, a pure adrenaline rush, my blood was on fire. I didn't feel the cold anymore and my legs were jelly. I had no idea how big the wave was until I saw the photos. I couldn't believe my eyes; it was the biggest ride of my life. Still, I wanted to go back out and catch an even bigger and better one. I felt I was just getting started but it was getting dark and the jet ski was low on fuel so we called it a day. And what a day...I'd made history. The first woman to ride Aill na Searrach, not to mention my first time towing-in. Now I just need a jet ski to fuel my new-found addiction. This is only the beginning. MORE WOMENS SURFLINE HOME PAGE |
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