Registered or Premium Member? LOG IN | Not a Premium Member? TRY PREMIUM FREE NOW
|
DUNGEONS DELIVERS
Durban's John Whittle takes the Red Bull Big Wave Africa in solid surf
By:
Grant Washburn
|
July 27, 2006
|
|
The new Red Bull BWA format is a double-edged sword.
It calls for a longer waiting period, but less time for the surfers to make it to Cape Town, much of the magic of this event has been getting to know the guys over the years, and it's a little sad to have visits cut so short -- but the swells have been weak all season, so we're glad to arrive with the best storms of winter.
|
|
Previous
1 of 9
|
John and I join some of the other competitors for the afternoon, and everyone gets reacquainted with the finicky break zone known as Dungeons. This wave possesses many of the qualities of more familiar spots, but comes with a vast array of radical variables -- and the added mystery of no buoy data and a remarkably unpredictable area of ocean, I have learned not to trust any forecast. We will have big waves, and an event, but even the most experienced locals don't know what to expect. Thursday finds the swell down a bit, but clean and contestable. We are expecting the size to build, and no one questions the call when legendary forefathers Johnny Paarman and Gary Linden announce the green light. Every guy in the event would prefer a day of 20 foot plus surf, but we know perfectly well how elusive such days are, particularly in the chaotic basin off of the Southern tip of Africa. It could be 15 feet and perfect, or 25 feet and gale force by sunset -- same goes for Friday, and no one wants to risk passing a beautiful day of weather. We have learned to fear Mother Nature's backlash. The event gets rolling and Dungeons tosses a few sweet barrels onto the reef, along with a few surfers. It is minimal by big-wave standards, and yet my buddy Johnno, and exceptional charger, goes flying through the air on his first attempt! He never has a prayer, and is stomped into the pit in a manner that has everyone cringing "Ouch." This spot is very tricky, and capable of wreaking havoc on even the best crew. It is clear that the swell is fragmented, and positioning and luck will play as big a part as the actual surfing. I suit up knowing my chances are fair to poor, but I am stoked to just to play ball with this group of dedicated extremists. Dungeons has just sent a few of the world's best to the showers, scratching their heads and wondering what happened. The unlucky have no chance at all. I manage to place 2nd, behind paddling phenom Chris Bertish -- he's the guy that freaked out Jay Moriarity and my Maverick's pals on an 8' board, then went to Jaws and hooked into a grinder before taking the 2001 XXL prize on a beast at Todos. He's been charging odd cloudbreaks off of the U.K. and is on his game. Both of us are shocked to do well, as it's hard to feel in the groove when the waves are breaking all around you. Equally shocking is the fact that Greg Long missed the cut -- widely considered the best bet by the crew. He joins the unlucky on the bench. "This is the day I had traveled to experience, year after year -- and for those of us who shared the session, it will forever remain etched into our heart s as one of the best days of surfing we have ever known."
-Grant Washburn, on the day after the Red Bull BWA
The take-off zone is a actually 3 or 4 different peaks today, strewn over several hundred meters of kelp beds and ledges. Most lead into a gaping bowl near the shoulder, some into a gaping closeout. This dynamic allows guys to spread out, so there is very little hustling. If a bomb comes to you, it is usually all yours. John, Jamie and Andrew look good early, and Christ Bertish scores well on a deep ledge, but it is a particularly violent thumping endured by North Shore golden child Jamie, that draws the most excitement from the audience. It is a radical day, despite not providing the scale we had hoped, and the onlookers are wowed by the spectacle. As time winds down John Whittle narrowly pulls a late take-off and shoots into the inside section. He has been chosen. His wave winds benevolently into the thick inner bowl, and John tears into it appreciatively. It is the winning moment, a well-earned return on many years of hard work and preparation. I know he dreamed of winning the coveted title in flawless, 20-foot plus mega-surf, but he is content to accept it today. Everyone knows he deserves it, and warm feelings dominate the after party. BWA 2006 is a success! But what of the swell? My sources liked Friday, but local winds had come up, and were scheduled to ruin the day. Much the way the North Pacific mocks Maverick's diehards, the South Atlantic has a surprise for us. We awake to find the swell has doubled (or more!) and the devil wind is gone. It is surreal, particularly for those of us who have been stalking this day for years. Rogue sets rear over the pristine line-up. Twiggy carves all over a peeling 20 footer and Chris pulls into a blind barrel -- spits out the corner pocket and raises his arms. It is the best Dungeons I have ever seen, and it's BIG! Many of the competitors join us in the water, some had to depart, others ride elsewhere...and Evan Slater decided to go see the antelope play at the game park (did you see any Hippos? We have them at the S.F. zoo, and they are pretty cool!) It is a session for the ages. An incredible crew, a magical vibe. I land a giant peak right away, and share one with Twiggy, and another with Greg. They are all pushing 25 feet, no one wants to try to classify these, but Carlos, Patto and I, likely having confronted more of this sort of juice than the rest, agree that it is "Flipping BIG" no matter where you surf. Greg and Twiggy were first out, and report bagging a 60-foot wall that Greg negotiated via ski assist. No one in the water questions the claim. Their reputations are unsurpassed, and, all day long, we are forced to bail our boards up the face of waves so huge, I cannot give an accurate measure. Dungeons had chosen its winner, and then given the rest of us a prize far greater than anything an event can offer. This is the day I had traveled to experience, year after year -- and for those of us who shared the session, it will forever remain etched into our heart s as one of the best days of surfing we have ever known. For more, check out the the offical event website. MORE SURF NEWS SURFLINE HOME PAGE |