New England Introduction
For traveling surfers, southern New England (Maine, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, Massachusetts and Connecticut) offers a great variety of waves, weather and experiences. Rocky points, cobblestone reefs, classic rivermouths and typical East Coast beachbreaks are all part of the smorgasbord. Waves of all shapes and sizes, from southwest windswells to solid overhead North Atlantic groundswells to the fabled late summer/early fall hurricane swells, can challenge, delight and sometimes frustrate even the most dedicated surfer. And dedicated you must be to put up with the long flat spells and harsh temperatures.
With more coastline and unexplored wave fields than any other state, Maine is truly one of the last frontiers of surfing in the continental U.S. The most popular lineups are located in southern Maine, between York and Portland. Less populated points, bars, rivermouths and ledges run north to the Canadian border. Unsubstantiated rumors continue to circulate about triple-overhead walls on small islands and ledges all along the coast, from Rockland to Quoddy Head. Placed squarely in the umbra of Cape Cod to the south and Nova Scotia to the northeast, the painfully small wave window and the shallow waters of George's Bank eviscerate many marginal swells, creating long, flat spells over much of the year.
With more than 9,000 square miles of land, New Hampshire boasts less than 13 miles of coastline. Yet for anyone who's ever hit a solid swell there, it doesn't get any better on the East Coast. With a variety of beachbreaks, reefs and points, it's easy to see why the local crew has multiplied like rabbits. New technology in wetsuits and drysuits make it easy for the once "seasonal surfer" to survive year-round. Throw in a few solid nor'easters to get the pointbreaks cooking and New Hampshire can become paradise.
Massachusetts boasts the longest surfable coastline of any New England state, an abundance of surf and by far the largest general population, yet it doesn't share the densely packed lineups of Rhode Island and New Hampshire. Boston is the hub, a rocking college town with lots to do and lots of kids who are the right age for surfing. Yet only a miniscule percentage of those kids surf. The breaks of New Hampshire are only an hour to the north, Rhode Island's surf is 90 minutes to the South and there can be good waves much closer to the city and on Cape Cod.
Rhode Island, with its hidden coves and rocky outcrops, receives the lion's share of Southern New England surf. It's divided into two, roughly equal-size surf zones, Newport and Narragansett. They are separated by Narragansett Bay, one of the sailing centers of the world, and connected by a toll bridge. With all the hurricane season hoopla, Newport has become the most famous surf area north of Cape Hatteras, but the photo coverage of epic days is misleading. Newport is not the Hawaii or Santa Cruz of the East Coast because the Atlantic Ocean just does not generate swell with the consistency needed to justify such claims. On rare occasions, large, perfect surf can happen during the 10-week window when water temperatures are comfortable. Because of the endurance and dedication required to cope with the flatness and frigidity of the rest of the year, locals are protective of their short time in the sun. After staring at the Tropical Update throughout the long, hot summer, willing tropical waves to circulate and grow, the last thing they want to see is their favorite peak overrun by hoards of strangers. Being the smallest state in the Union, there isn't much room for interlopers.
For good reason, most people will tell you that there is no surf in Connecticut. That good reason is that Long Island, which is visible from most of the Connecticut shore, serves as a 110-mile long breakwater. However, there are a few places in the eastern end of the state that will get some swell bending its way along Long Island Sound.
Crowds
No generalizations can be made about New England crowds due to extreme variations from day to day and place to place. You could meet up with a friendly group of fellows and be invited over for a Sam Adams, or you could be sent packing by Larry the Loud-Mouthed Local after stumbling upon his secret spot. After enduring a cold, brutal winter and a flat, hot summer, don't pull up during prime hurricane season and expect a warm greeting. These folks live for this stuff, so proceed with caution. Even winter isn't only for the truly hardcore these days with all the innovations in wetsuit technology. Where there is surf, there are crowds.
Hazards
Crowds are a main hazard and getting hit by a board is a possibility in the overcrowded breaks in Rhode Island. Hypothermia is a danger most of the year, especially if your wetsuits are too light for the conditions. Frostbite is possible on freezing and minus wind chill days. Rock bottom breaks equal broken fins, broken boards and occasionally broken bones.
New Hampshire is loaded with picturesque pointbreaks, but the dry paddle isn't as easy as you'd think: the restrictive rubber is amplified by tricky currents and heavy water that make most spots too dangerous for all but the most advanced surfers. Also, rocks are always a consideration.
There's a sunken barge in the surf zone in the center of Narragansett Town Beach that causes dangerous currents during heavy surf. The barge, which is rusting away with many sharp, jagged metal edges, is totally submerged except on the lowest tides. Many of the surf spots in the Narragansett area are rock bottom breaks without sand beach entry points. Many of the rocks are extremely slippery from natural marine growth, and extra caution should be taken when walking on the black moss covered rocks.
The Seasons
Summer
June, July and August constitute a traditional New England summer. By September, fall is in swing. Show up at The Wall on a typical June day and you'll be disgusted. If you're lucky, a Midwestern front has pushed through overnight, leaving a dribbling waist-high windswell. Be patient enough, and wallow through a sweltering July (yes, I said sweltering, for as cold as the winters get, the summers are equally unforgiving) and you might be lucky enough to sample your first New Hampshire groundswell.
Typically, the southern tropical swells hit Rhode Island first and many a surf-starved rider will head south two hours to pick up the first rumblings. Once the swell wraps around Cape Cod, the window is wide open for business. Hurricane swells in New Hampshire bring big, powerful lines, swept clean by light offshore winds and water temperatures up to 70 degrees. If it's overhead, the points awaken, and you can call this trip all-time.
Fall
Fall is the best time to be in New England. The nor'easter is a friendly beast. Sometimes born in the Great Lakes, other times forming off the Carolinas, it usually blows right by the southern states only to intensify off the mid-Atlantic, sometimes forming a secondary low for a one-two combination. For a solid day or two, the wind will gust out of the northeast as hard as 30 to 50 mph and stronger. Usually a 3/2 in early fall will do the trick, followed by a 4/3 in short time. By October's end, you'll need everything you've got. But fall is worth every chill. With late season hurricanes (not unusual) and the ever-popular nor'easter, it's filled with great visuals and good vibes. Everyone's excited that summer's over.
Winter
Cold like you've never experienced. Ice forming on any exposed facial hair, ice forming on eyebrows, ice on your brain. Water temperature below 32 degrees. Air temps way below zero (add the wind chill factor and you're looking at 20 to 30 below). Ice and snow chunks floating by you. Water like cement. You think this is B.S.? You have no idea. But there's a silver lining: the surf. Oh, yes, it can get downright big and nasty. Thick, winter swells forming off the coast from snow-driven nor'easters. Harsh, cold winds blowing hard against the faces of those winter lines.
Spring
Spring can bring with it some fine lines to shake off the winter blahs. The sun in your face on a nice spring swell can warm the soul of the coldest heart in town. And by the time May rolls around, the 4/3 you wore last fall will feel like you're surfing in baggies. Slowly but surely, the rubber peels away: first the hood, then the gloves and finally the booties. But by the time all that rubber disappears, the swells disappear, too. Ain't life a bitch.
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CHOCOLATE SHAKE
(12/19/07) Fun surf wakes up the Northeast from its slow winter start |
HAPPY TURKEY DAY
(11/25/07) First solid winter swell hits East Coast |
HAPPY ST. PATRICK'S DAY
(03/19/07) Strong winter storm sends pumping, freezing surf to the Northeast |
SUMMER LOVIN'
(07/21/06) Tropical Storm Beryl brings fun surf to the East Coast |
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THE LOST WEEKEND
(09/11/03) Hurricane Fabian delivers perfect surf to New England |
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