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When the Eiffel Tower was first constructed, Parisians hoped the ugly thing would be torn down directly after the International Exposition of 1889. Today, it's the most distinguishable architecture in Europe. In the way that communities come to embrace out-of-place constructions, the turbaned Self-Realization Fellowship, built for Swami Paramahansa Yogananda in 1937 in Encinitas, has come to represent the reef point it overlooks. The right point, a rarity in San Diego, seems to cap off the series of happy-go-lucky reefbreaks south of it before the beachbreaks of Encinitas begin. The wave needs a decent swell to show a hint of its potential, but it's generally the daily hub of North County surfing during the winter months. To get to Swami's, use the Encinitas Boulevard exit off of the I5 freeway coming from the north, and the Birmingham exit from the south. Then, head west to PCH, and look for the gold domes atop the Fellowship's walls.
The attitude in the car park reflects that of most of northern San Diego: laid back. Many of the surfers here have been surfing the spot for their entire surfing lives, and a fairly tight brotherhood exists among those who have put in the time. That is not to say that there is an unfriendly vibe in the water; it's just that the same group of guys seem to be in position each time a good set rolls through. Most of these regulars are riding boards more than 8 feet in length, so they have one hell of an advantage over those of us on 6'3"s.
On crowded days, even the most skilled shortboarders find themselves battling for leftovers on the inside, while the established crew has its way on the outside. This is not necessarily a bad thing, being that the smaller waves are usually steeper and offer a couple of bowl sections. Pretty much any wave at Swami's is a good wave, and a rider is guaranteed at least one or two sections to hit even on the worst of days. The drop is generally mellow, and then the wave races across a shallow ledge on the inside until it eventually hits a huge channel. The channel is actually so large that no other waves break for about a quarter of a mile to the south. Depending on the tide, the wave breaks with varying degrees of steepness. Obviously, lower tides make for the speediest waves. There is a short left that can be surfed if you are getting so shut down on the right that you need something just to keep the blood flowing. If this is the case, paddle deeper than the rest of the pack and sneak off to the left. Swami's can handle as big a swell as the Pacific cares to throw its way, and gets better as the size increases.
The parking lot fills up quickly on the weekends or during any real swell. It is possible to park alongside the highway just south of the entrance to Swami's and walk back to the stairway in front of the car park. The people milling around in the lot can be almost as interesting as the action in the water. Encinitas has also been dubbed one of the healthiest cities in California, so don't be surprised to see some fine-looking women jogging past on the highway.
-- kimball taylor
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low to mid
W, NW (15 seconds or under)
2 to 12 feet+
calm or E
9
Right-reef point
average to top pro
high-performance shortboard, longboard, gun, turban
winter
Look for the gold domes.
hideous to unbearable
a bunch of snake charmers -- "Dude, I didn't see you!"
7 -- it's a long way back after a good ride.
1
shortboarder snakes, no-look-drop-ins, greedy longboarders, some older grumps
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For breakfast, try the Potato Shack (760-436-1282) in Encinitas, which offers unlimited spuds for the starch-deficient surfer. Swami's Cafe is a local favorite for health-minded breakfasts and smoothies (1163 S. Coast Highway 101, 760-944-0612). The samba-minded, sangria-drinking crowd will dig the Calypso, at 576 N. Coast Highway 101, Encinitas (760-632-8252). Ah, and there's always a place for Roberto's Taco Shop (760-634-2909) -- with 28 locations in SD, they're literally everywhere -- and, sensibly, there's one at 1900 N. Coast Highway. If you need a perk-up, the Pannikin (760-436-5824) offers liquidated coffee beans in unlimited varieties.
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Try the San Elijo or South Carlsbad State Beach campgrounds. Spots range from $17 to $22, and some overlook area reefs. Reservations in summer months will be a problem if not booked seven months in advance. Luckily, during the winter when the waves are best, it's fairly easy to get a spot without reservations. For information online, check http://cal-parks.ca.gov/COUNTIES/san_diego.htm. For reservations, call 800-444-PARK.
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Get a sense of this right point's namesake and visit the beautiful gardens on top of the point at the Self-Realization Fellowship. Turn west off PCH onto K Street, or just walk a block north of the Swami's parking lot, turn left and enter the gardens at the second blue gate. Admission is free, and the gardens are open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, and 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Sunday. The gardens are part of the facility built for Swami Paramahansa Yogananda in 1937.
The Magdalena Ecke Family YMCA skatepark in Encinitas has a brand-new, 13-foot high, 80-foot-wide vert ramp. The 32,000-square-foot facility is famous for the number of pro skaters it attracts. It holds a street course and various steel ramps and bowls. Annual membership fees are $20, and there is a $10 fee per session for non-members (760-942-9622).
If you're lucky, you might time your stay perfectly to see one of the many surf and skateboard video releases at the La Paloma Theater, 471 S. Coast Highway (760-4365774).
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Hansen's, 1105 S. Coast Highway 101, 760-753-6595
K5 Boardrider Shop, 1465 Encinitas Blvd., 760-436-6613
Longboard Grotto, 978 N. Coast Highway, 760-634-1920
Mitch's Surf Shop, 363 N. Highway 101, Solana Beach, 858-481-1354
Surf Ride Board Shop, 325 N. Highway 101, Solana Beach, 858-755-0858
Encinitas Surfboards, 107 N Coast Highway 101, Encinitas, (760) 753-0506
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