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| Westport/Olympic Peninsula |
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North of the Long Beach Peninsula, sprawling woods and lowlands are punctured deeply by Willapa Bay and Grays Harbor, both surrounded by summertime beachbreak, damp sand dunes and depressed communities such as Moclips, Tokeland and Copalis Beach.
On the outer edge of Grays Harbor is Westport. It's another depressing burg of the poverty stricken Washington coast, home to more endless miles of beachbreak, heavy swell and onshore winds. Dreary, vacant streets with seemingly perpetual overcast. Fishing and charter boats stuffed into the marina, large American trucks bumper stickered with "Supported By Fishing Dollars." Beach access south of town is found at Midway Beach Road, Cranberry Beach Road, Grayland Beach Road, Bonge Avenue and Schafer Road.
About a mile south of the South Jetty is Westport Light State Park, another duned beach but with a steeper drop-off than of that found at the jetty. More funky sandbars, more closeouts, more wind. The two principal surf spots in this area are the South Jetty -- another standard jetty break that gets very good on occasion -- and Half Moon Bay, on the other side of the jetty, tucked into the harbor entrance. It's a crescent of white sand, driftwood and a Coast Guard watchtower surrounded by dunes to the south and jetties and the Westport marina to the north. It's not a real scenic spot, but one that proves mighty invaluable during the huge, south-wind days/weeks of winter. It's a shallow, flat-bottomed beachbreak that's hollow and fast for a section or two.
The north end is bigger but windier. Dumpy waves -- no real length to them, but you can get shacked. Directly across the bay is Ocean Shores, home to another half-baked jetty setup. If you care to venture into an even more depressing area with even more beachbreak, embark onto Highway 109 out of Aberdeen. Lined with clear-cuts, the road first takes you into Ocean City, which offers a few temperamental sandbars at the end of Second Avenue. Then it's on to not-so-lovely Copalis Beach, with beach access through Griffiths-Priday Ocean State Park, at the end of Benner Road. The Copalis River empties here, and, yes, it might get good during the early summer. Farther north is Roosevelt Beach Road before the sagging face of Pacific Beach comes into view. Here, you can hit the water by taking Homer Street to Analyde Gap Road or by sliding into Pacific Beach State Park, at the end of Second Street. Finally, up in tiny Moclips, the beach lies at the end of Second Street. Above Moclips, the 23 convoluted miles of the private Quinault Indian Reservation remain off-limits to surfing and the general public, and a only select few can brag of surf within its borders, namely at one excellent right-hand pointbreak.
-- Mike Kew
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high
Anything, as long as it's small and clean. For Half Moon Bay, however, you'll want a big winter swell that can make it in here.
about head-high
E (SE for Half Moon Bay)
2 to 4
sand
beginner and up
anything, 5/4/3mm hooded fullsuit with booties and gloves
Summer. Winter for Half Moon Bay.
To get to Westport and the beachbreaks south, exit Highway 101 onto Highway 105. Half Moon Bay: Go about a half-mile down the Westhaven State Park road and turn right onto the rocky, potholed sand lane (where the two big concrete things stick up) to the potholed sand parking lot right in front of the break. Go another half-mile down the paved road and you come to South Jetty parking lot.
Westport's Half Moon Bay and South Jetty are the only spots you'll see other surfers.
mellow
mellow
1
3
Under toads.
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For the all-American, drive-up grease haven, there's Totem (2411 Nyhus Dr., 360-268-0909), which serves the standard burgers, wieners, sandwiches and seafood baskets for relatively cheap (but not too cheap). Across from Float 6 in the marina is Barbara's By The Sea (2323 Westhaven Dr., 360-268-1329) with a live crab tank, salad bar and Belgian waffles. Bust some karaoke at Kings Restaurant/Sports Bar/Lounge (105 E. Wilson, 360-268-2556), which also have live music on the weekends and some hearty prime rib. You can find home-style cookin' at the Dock Street Diner (320 E. Dock, 360-268-6056) and decent south-of-the-border eats at Las Maracas Mexican Restaurant (202 Ocean Ave., 360-268-6272). In Copalis Beach, pop on in and have a beer with the boys at the Green Lantern.
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Probably the fanciest joint is Chateau Westport (710 W. Hancock, 360-268-9101), a bit south of Westport proper. The Harbor Resort (871 Neddie Rose Dr., 360-268-0169) has family cottages and private decks with nice water views. You can sink your own crab pots at Ken's Kourt Marina Motel (2339 N. Nyhus, 360-268-9633). It's on the dock replete with "great showers," microwaves and cleanliness. The Mariners Cove Inn (303 W. Ocean Ave., 360-268-0531) is kind of cool, as is the Orca Motel (221 E. Dock, 360-268-5010). If you feel like venturing up to Copalis Beach, try Linda's Low Tide Motel (14 McCullough Rd., 360-289-3450), which is right on the beach. Other quality accommodations include the Moonstone Beach Motel in Moclips (4849 Pacific Ave., 360-276-4346 or 888-888-9063), the Sand Dollar Inn in Pacific Beach (53 Central Ave., 360-276-4525) and the Pacific Sands Resort Motel in Ocean City (2687 State Route 109, 360-289-3588). RV and tent camping is available at (all the following can be accessed through: www.parks.wa.gov): Twin Harbors Beach State Park (317 sites), Grayland Beach State Park (63 sites), Ocean City State Park (181 sites) and Pacific Beach State Park (64 sites).
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There's a cool, 1.4-mile-long Westport Light Trail that winds north from the Westport Lighthouse to Westhaven State Park ( www.parks.wa.gov/westhavn.htm). You could check out the Furford Cranberry Museum, which has a video presentation and some interesting artifacts on display, including the first picking machine, hand scoop and various antique tools. The Westport Maritime Museum (2201 Westhaven Dr., 360-268-0078 is worth a browse if the waves suck. Each January, the locals host their Polar Surf Challenge (800-42PUGET) and a longboard contest in August. You can reach the Westport-Grayland Chamber of Commerce at 2985 N. Montesano St., 360-268-9422 or 800-345-6223, www.westportwa.com.
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For gear, there's the creatively named Surf Shop (207 N. Montesano, 360-268-0992) and the Boarding Factory (1200 N. Montesano, 360-2685371).
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