Beyond the south end of Wrightsville Beach lies Masonboro Inlet, across which lies the undeveloped barrier island of Masonboro. "Mase" still exists in its natural state, and its low elevation and narrow width make it a prime destination for nesting birds of all sorts, not to mention a fun excursion for fisherman and boaters; however, the surf is Masonboro's best attribute and Wrightsville Beach's most redeeming quality overall, offering a California-style beachbreak in an area cursed with here-today-gone-tomorrow, mushy windswell.

The only snag to Mase is getting there. You either have to boat it or paddle it. Since most boat owners live here, we'll assume you're paddling, but first you have to find the inlet. To do that, drive south to the absolute southern end of Wrightsville Beach, park along the side of the road and feed the meter. Walk past the gazebo on the beach and you'll be looking across the inlet at Masonboro. From here, there are two options: on an incoming tide, simply paddle straight toward the island and on an outgoing tide, you'll want to adjust for the current by walking another 100 yards or so toward the mouth of the inlet and then paddle out. It should take about 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the conditions.

Perfect bowls, crystal-clear water and miles of untouched beach await the surfer seeking something a bit more primal than a photograph. By far the most powerful and hollow wave in the area, this is usually the place to go during northeasters, as it will be a little glassier than spots in town; however, it can turn on and off with a shift in tide or a change in wind. Far from a secret spot, anyone who has caught it doing its thing knows it can be one of the best waves on the East Coast, and it gets mighty crowded. However, when it's really, really good, the dominant players have no problem getting waves from the pack of guys trying to make it out to the lineup or over the shoulder of that sweet left off the jetty. Mase is definitely worth a check. One more thing, if you do have a boat, pack some food; otherwise you're feeding on gull eggs and sea oats.

Oceanic Restaurant and Grille (910-256-5551) is a good place to have a nicer meal while checking out the south end of Wrightsville. As you creep farther south, best to keep your distance from the piers. Go to one of the many Scotchmans if you need goodies or to make poo briquettes. There's a McDonald's in the middle of town in CB and Paradise Cafe (910-458-4020) offers fine sandwiches. In Kure Beach, it's all about fresh seafood at Big Daddy's (910-458-8622).

Up to the north, you can crash at the Shell Island Resort (910-256-8696) or the Holiday Inn (910-256-2231), both about to fall into the sea. There are numerous hotels/motels in southern Wrightsville. Some of the best are the Blockade Runner and Conference Center Resort (910-256-2251) or the Holiday Inn Sunspree Resort (910-256-2231). For the early morning Mase session, be prepared to camp, sleep on the boat or paddle your ass back to Wrightsville. Farther south, The Beacon House (910-458-6244, www.beaconhouseinnb-b.com) is an excellent bed and breakfast in Carolina Beach. In Carolina and Kure, you can risk sleeping in one of the many neat parks (www.insiders.com/wilmington) made for bird feeding, bird watching or bird stuffing -- if that's your thing. Or try the Docksider Inn (910-458-4200). For a meal and a good night's sleep near the Fort Fisher area, go to Ocean Princess Bed and Breakfast (www.bbdirectory.com/Inn/1344.html, 910-458-6712) right on Fort Fisher Boulevard.

If you're in the mood for a little nightlife in Wrightsville, try the trendy college strip of bars known as "The Block." (After seeing all the helmets, you'll want to call it the "Cock Block.") Be warned: town chicks can be untouchably egocentric. True, there is a large, almost disproportionate ratio of girls to guys in the area, but it's like being stranded in the middle of the ocean -- water, water everywhere, but not a drop to drink. You see them driving. You see them in the grocery store. But when you go out, they don't see you. Oh, well, at least there's no shortage of appealing drinks.

Start at the island corner and follow your inebriated senses north -- Red Dogs (910-256-2776), King Neptune's (910-256-2525), Clarence Fosters (910-256-0224) -- and if you're really struggling, you'll end up at the Raw Bar (910-256-2974). No shame, though, the Raw Bar has seen some of the most whiskey-soaked, debauchery-fueled male bonding brawl-fests this side of Tennessee. Get rowdy, partner! Conversely, Carolina Beach and Kure Beach are boring with a capital "B." Go play pool somewhere, or go to Tai Cobb's and check out the deck with live music. Even if waves at the Cove suck, visit the Civil War site (www.oakisland.com/things/fort/) in Fort Fisher for a history lesson. The Docksider Inn's (910-458-4200) nautical theme is worth a look too. The many marine art forms and artifacts delight all vacationers and even the odd surfer.

For surf accessorizing in Wrightsville, stop by and see the good folks at Sweetwater Surf Shop (910-256-3821) and get the low-down on WB from Tony and the Bourgeois girls. Another swell shop is Surf City (910-256-2265). Farther south, in Carolina Beach, you can go to the Cove Surf Shop for any surf info, a wave report or some wax (910-458-4671).