In the inland town of Valley Ford, you can try Dinucci's (707-876-3260), an honest bar and grill with fresh fish and a congenial atmosphere. Adjacent to Porto Bodega Marina, on the way to Bodega Head, is the local favorite Sandpiper Dockside Cafe, a dynamite seafood joint with superb clam chowder and crab cioppino; 1410 Bay Flat Rd., 707-875-2278. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served with a bayside view. If you like eating seafood in the raw, try Sushi Osaka at 1801 Highway 1 in Bodega Bay, on the corner of East Shore Road, 707-875-2550. Roadhouse Coffee serves up some fine (you guessed it) coffee and espresso at 2001 Highway 1, 707-875-8820. The "freshest seafood on the Sonoma Coast" is claimed to be found at The Tides Wharf (707-875-3652), a fairly expensive dig with a full bar. Its specialties are its seafood, pasta and beef dishes, 835 Highway 1. Also available here is fresh fish and quality Sonoma wines, fishing bait and tackle, a gift shop and a snack bar.

Sleeping indoors is out of the question around here unless you've got some deep pockets or are visiting in an RV. No cheap motels exist along the entire Sonoma coast -- all B and Bs and inns fetch top tourist dollars. One small exception is the Bodega Harbor Inn (707-875-3594), which offers older units at $48 a pop, but don't count on scoring one during tourist season unless you've made reservations well in advance. Pricier outfits include the Bodega Coast Inn (521 Highway 1, 707-875-2217) and The Inn at the Tides (800 Highway 1, 800-541-7788). The Chanslor Guest Ranch is unique in that it's a working cattle ranch moonlighting as a B and B: 707-875-2721. Much, much lower on the wallet-drain is the campground right there at Doran Park ($12 to $14): 128 sites, plus 10 for tent camping only. Quarters are tight and there's a lot of gravelly pavement, but it's better than maxing your credit card at an inn. Also nearby is the highly recommended Bodega Dunes Campground (707-875-3483, one mile north of Bodega Bay off Highway 1), a maze of 98 sandy campsites shrouded with Monterey cypress trees. Two private campgrounds nearby are Bodega Bay RV Park (707-875-3701) and Porto Bodega Marina (707-875-2354). Westside Regional Park (707-875-3540) hugs the bay on Bay Flat Road, off East Shore Road.

The jetty at the end of the sandspit (nope, no surf here) hosts some decent surfperch and jacksmelt fishing. On the north side of the road extends the Doran March Wildlife Area, riddled with wading waterfowl like stilts and egrets. Bring your binoculars if you're into bird-watching. For an interesting side-trip, pay a visit to the UC Bodega Marine Lab on West Shore Road, 707-875-2211. Here you can witness a major aquaculture program with a guided tour including an overview of marine research labs and aquariums. Open to the public Fridays from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. For hikers, Bodega Head offers some fabulous views of the coast and a look at the failed attempt to construct a nuclear power plant here. Also keen for hikers is the Pinnacle Gulch Trail, located off Heron Drive, just east of Doran. For happenings inland in Santa Rosa, Petaluma, etc., pick up a copy of the weekly Sonoma County Independent.

If you need some coldwater wax, visit the gang at Northern Light Surf Shop, 17190 Bodega Highway, Bodega (just inland from the coast), 707-876-3032. They have a daily surf report, too: 707-876-3110. Another shop is Surf Plus/Bodega Bay Surf Shack at 1400 Highway 1 in Bodega Bay, 707-875-3944, www.bodegabaysurf.com.If you happen to be stuck inland, visit High Tide Surf Shop at 9 Fourth St. in Petaluma, 707-763-3860; Brotherhood Board Shop at 1216 Mendocino Ave. in Santa Rosa, 707546-0660; or Gone Surfing at 1451 SW Blvd. in Rohnert Park, 707-665-0100.