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The northernmost of the volcanic peaks spanning from the city of San Luis Obispo to Morro Bay, 576-foot-tall Morro Rock (also called the Gibraltar of the Pacific) exists in a state preserve for the nesting of the endangered peregrine falcon. Thus, you can't climb on it or even get near it -- surfing on the rock's north side is the closest you'll come to this intriguing monolith, and the scenery isn't the only reason worth visiting this salty town of 10,000.
Because the beach faces due west, any and every kind of swell hits the sandbars of Morro Rock, occasionally converting an ordinary California beachbreak into a magical mile or two of feathering A-frames and vomiting tubes. But on a daily basis, this is simply another generic beachbreak with customary closeouts, rip currents and the failure to handle anything over 6 feet. The farther up the beach you go, the bigger and beefier the waves become. There's a mushy left off the Rock itself, but if you crave power and consistency, you'll scarcely be disappointed with the beach's north end. If the sandbars are formed just right, they'll manage big swells, but the problem then becomes making it out.
-- Mike Kew
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medium to high
W, NW, SW
Knee-high to several feet overhead
E
3 to 5
sand
beginner to intermediate
any board will do
summer and fall
From the south, exit Highway 1 onto Harbor Boulevard and take it to Embarcadero. Hang a right and drive around the bay's north end until you reach Coleman City Park, where you'll leave the car. You can also take Atascadero Road.
Close to the Rock can be competitive, but you can always find your own peak up the beach
The locals are mostly friendly, so smile and enjoy the company.
3 to 6
2
Stingrays (warm water from the power plant), closeouts
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Some of the Central Coast's finest restaurants line the Embarcadero along Morro Bay. The Otter Rock Cafe overlooks the harbor and (885 Embarcadero, 805-772-1420) has a full bar, live entertainment and good food. The Sandpiper Continental Cafe is good for breakfast (571 Embarcadero, 805-772-4975). Old-fashioned home cookin' for breakfast, lunch and dinner is available at Margie's Diner (1698 N. Main St., 805-772-2510) and, boy, is it good. Exceptional seafood is cooked up at Dorn's Original Breakers Cafe (801 Market St., 805-772-4415) and at the Flying Dutchman Restaurant (701 Embarcadero, 805-772-2269), which also offers pastas and choice Angus steaks. A Morro Bay establishment for more than 25 years, the oceanfront Hofbrau Restaurant (571 Embarcadero, 805-772-2411) is king of the roast beef sandwich and serves primo fish-and-chips, salads, soups and choice of beers. Gourmet ice cream, smoothies, coffee and pinball machines are available from The Frozen Dome (857 Main St., 805-772-3663). Just about every other restaurant in Morro Bay is listed at www.morrobay.org.
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Morro Bay oozes with ocean view/oceanfront accommodations and www.morrobay.org has a gargantuan listing. One rather swank oceanfront joint is the Embarcadero Inn (456 Embarcadero, 805-772-2700 or 800-292-7625), with 32 rooms, complimentary breakfast and free movies. Up the road is the Keystone Inn (540 Main St., 805-772-7503, www.morrobay.com/keystoneinn). On the less-expensive side is the Villager Motel (1098 Main St., 805-772-1235), the Pleasant Inn (235 Harbor St., 805-772-8521 or 888-772-8521) and the Cabrillo Motel (890 Morro Bay Blvd., 805-772-4435 or 800-222-8915). As for B and Bs, try the excellent Marina Street Inn (305 Marina St., 805-772-4016 or 888-683-9389).
A couple of campgrounds exist in Morro Bay, but their scenic and privacy values pale sorely in comparison to what you'll find up north or down in Montana de Oro State Park (see "Places to Stay" entry for Hazards). Nonetheless, there are 135 campsites with tables and stoves (20 have water and electric hookups) in Morro Bay State Park (805-772-2560 or 772-2694, www.parks.ca.gov), and there's a small boat launch ramp and a dock with berths and restrooms. Right in front of the beachbreak off Yerba Buena Street, there's the South Morro Strand State Beach Campground, housing 104 campsites, showers and restrooms (805-772-2560, www.parks.ca.gov). The campsites are cramped together here (i.e. no privacy) and sparse landscaping exists, while the near constant drone from Highway 1 detracts significantly from your camping experience. Hostel Obispo (1617 Santa Rosa St., 805-544-4678) in San Luis Obispo will run you $15 a night.
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Since Morro Bay is the largest town on the Central Coast, it has everything you'll desire. At Coleman City Park (access route for the Rock), you'll find playground equipment, picnic tables, fire rings and restrooms. There are dressing rooms and outdoor showers near the campground at the north end. Besides the surf, other attractions include the family owned Morro Bay Aquarium (595 Embarcadero Morro Bay, 805-772-7647, www.morrobay.com/MorroBayAquarium), or take a one-hour bay cruise on the Tiger Folly II (weekdays 805-772-2257, weekends 805-772-2255).
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As far as surf shops go, there's Surf Turf (701 Embarcadero, 805-772-3244), TKD Surf and Sport (571 Embarcadero, 805-772-3306), Wavelengths Surf Shop (988 Embarcadero, 805-772-3904), and Morro Bay Surf Company.
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