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Central Florida
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Central Florida Introduction
If you wonder why people around the world snicker when discussing East Coast waves, it's because Central Florida is considered the region's surfing capital. We're talking about a state that chooses titles almost entirely on native attributes -- the Sunshine State; Orange County; Alligator Alley -- yet, there's not a single Surfer's Beach or Wave City to be found. But what Central Florida's surf lacks in power and form, it makes up for in relative consistency, warm water temps and easy access. Some say this triad of ingredients is what keeps so many bodies in the water, turning Brevard County into an epicenter for both industry and talent. As the focus of most East Coast coverage since the '60s boom, Central Florida has become the Atlantic Seaboard's answer to SoCal. (Out of the water, at least). More than wave quality itself, it's this hero-filled history and constant media attention on spots like Sebastian Inlet -- not to mention the prospect of trunking it in the middle of March -- that draw surfers here. That, and the titty bars. Lots of titty bars.
Sebastian may be Central Florida's most publicized spot, but the scene doesn't revolve entirely around this legendary logo-filled lineup. In fact, the area's dominating features are Cape Canaveral and the Bahamas. Home of the Kennedy Space Center and a national seashore, the Cape bridges North Florida with Central Florida and is an important factor since it sometimes blocks southern spots from north swells while providing a more welcoming coastline for southeastern pulses. The Bahamas, on the other hand, are the scourge of South Florida surfers, barricading them from all but northerly swells and causing huge migrations north to Fort Pierce's North Jetty which, as the first series of spots to escape this archipelago's wrath, essentially marks Central Florida's southern border.
It may not be high-powered perfection like the North Shore, but Central Florida still offers plenty of diversity in the form of both big-name breaks and anonymous accesses: from Playalinda's long, solitary stretch of federally protected sandbars through the tourist trappings of Cocoa Beach, across Southern Brevard's soothing stretch of less hectic breaks spotted with high-profile draws and on into Indian River and St. Lucie counties, where a handful of Vero Beach options and Fort Pierce Inlet keep rich snobs from hoarding this entire length of coast. And then there's always Sebastian Inlet for those eager to duke it out with Florida's best -- and often worst -- surfing talents.
But before you approach any spot in the state -- or on the East Coast for that matter -- remember this tip: be on it. The Atlantic is fickle. Winds rise and switch quickly, swells drop instantly and changing tides always take their toll. Even the most desirable conditions can turn sour. Huge swells will shut down and offshore winds can kill a pulse overnight. So, if the surf looks appetizing, dig in. Chances are it won't stay tasty for long.
Crowds
Anybody can surf in Florida. Much like the state's median age, water temps rarely dip below 60, which often means trunkable surf into December. Furthermore, a long continental shelf saps swells of their energy, so average days won't issue the type of beatings to scar beginners for life and send them back to safer activities like sand castles and sponging. There are no surfing restrictions -- not even a leash law -- and strict protection of accesses makes hitting the beach just a matter of cheap-to-free parking and a short walk. Throw Orange County's high count of inlanders into the coast's already huge surfing population, and you have a potential for serious crowds, especially following one of the Atlantic's trademark, two-month, summer flat spells.
Still, most resource problems occur during the dry times, which force surfers to abandon the beaches at the end of their block and flock to small-wave enhancers like Sebastian Inlet, Second Light and Fort Pierce's North Jetty. Here is where the potential for clashing begins. Years of serving as a last -- or best -- resort for good waves has created lineups where ability, notoriety and intimidation can quickly replace etiquette. Sebastian Inlet's worldwide reputation not only stems from producing some of Florida's best waves and surfers, but also from fistfights and shouting matches between the old guard at First Peak and outsiders. Nevertheless, if a good swell is running, Sebastian becomes just several of countless quality spots, meaning you can score solo sessions without sacrificing wave quality, provided you know where to look. After all, with accesses waiting every two blocks in some cases, we can't detail each shifting break. Just know that there's an open pasture within a couple of miles of every pitting zoo.
Hazards
SHARKS
Florida holds the dubious title of Shark Attack Capital of the World; however, it's a bit overstated. Yes, the warm waters off the Sunshine State are prime for sand sharks, spinners -- even bull sharks and makos. Yes, a dozen or so attacks are reported every year, especially at the inlets, the ocean world's equivalent of a Denny's breakfast bar. But the majority of these incidents are cases of mistaken identity. Baitfish bombard the beaches during spring and fall, drawing sharks that sometimes take an ankle for a mullet. Almost all incidents are mere matters of a taste and release, followed by a few dozen stitches, at worst. The biggest, most painful chunks come out of the wallets of surfers lacking medical insurance.
As a result, Florida's locals have developed a sort of laissez-faire policy with sharks, refusing to leave the water without witnessing some overtly aggressive behavior, especially when protected by a good-size crowd. Sometimes, after wiping out, surfers will surface in the midst of swirling pools of water spitting baitfish in all directions, simply pull their legs up and cautiously finger-paddle back out to the lineup. After all, it was probably just tarpon. Even when someone finally gets munched, locals are reluctant to leave; they're more likely to flee from man-o-war, which can confetti lineups and shorelines when the winds blow southeast.
In short, if you're surfing in spring or summer, watch for fins and fleeing mullet, and better your odds by surfing with people. At least you'll have a ride to the clinic.
HURRICANES
These tempests continue to kill hundreds of people worldwide. But because tropical storms and hurricanes also provide some of the best waves in a given year -- often in the summer when it's most welcome -- surfers rely on the same cocky attitude they use with sharks. Many will push the risks until they are finally bitten, waiting until the absolute last minute to leave. The more adventurous will ride out smaller storms, even driving closer to the predicted point of impact in hopes of bigger waves, offshore winds and no crowds because most surfers have evacuated and are barred from reentry. As one thrill-seeker put it, "Whoever's got balls gets barreled."
The Seasons
Summer
In general, summer surf sucks on the East Coast, a fate no state can escape. Between June and August, there are no optimal, good or OK Central Florida spots -- just varying levels of suckiness. Sure, hurricanes can sometimes put the Atlantic wave factory in overdrive, but highly productive tropical seasons -- such as 1995's modern record of 19 named storms -- are rare. Even then, quality surf isn't a guarantee. Most storms gain strength in the Caribbean, moving northwest to skirt the East Coast.
This time of year, every prepared surfer has a gun handy in order to end his miserable existence -- with a good surf trip. Unlike northern surfers' standard winter surfaris to warmer temps, Floridians use summer's downtime to travel. Meanwhile, back home, a longboard or a fish shape becomes essential, as does surfing those spots known to give the tiniest bumps imaginable a boost in size -- specifically Sebastian Inlet and Second Light -- with some venturing as far north as New Smyrna Inlet, reputed to be the Florida coast's most consistent wave. This is when crowds get ugly: everyone wants to be on the beach, the waves are anemic, veteran surfers are starving and rabid groms are out of school and ready to battle for their share of any 1-foot shoredump. Even worse, water temps pass 80 degrees during the summer, providing no relief to the suffocating air temps of 90 and higher.
Fall
Early fall follows the same pattern as summer: hope for a hurricane or a Bermuda High to appear off the coast and send some semblance of swell. Toward the middle of September, the tropics should begin getting active. But just because a storm's a-brewin', it doesn't guarantee surf -- and certainly not quality surf. Central Florida's nearly uniform sand bottom doesn't always handle size, especially on a south swell, resulting in frustrating sessions where it's well overhead and glassy but shutting down from South Beach to South Carolina. You're lucky if you can beat the lip down the face. On the other hand, hurricanes do send swell from extreme distances, and the normal west-to-east flow of the earth's weather can be conducive to offshore conditions for days at a time.
As always, you're at the mercy of Mother Nature, that is traditionally kind during this season, prompting fond recollections and expectation over "Surftober." This crucial month marks both the final weeks of hurricane season and the first tastes of the winter storms, bolstering hopes that the reliable swells produced by nor'easters up the coast will begin to strike Central Florida's better breaks just as they're released from the unbearably hot temperatures, with daytime temps sticking around a more comfortable 80 degrees. Another bonus -- at least on weekdays -- is that groms are back in school to reduce surface crowds, while the undersea population booms as baitfish move toward shore with larger and more menacing monsters in tow. This is when the coastal food chain hits peak activity. Keep your feet up.
Winter
It's possible -- though unlikely -- to surf through winter without wearing a fullsuit, since the ocean rarely gets colder than 60 degrees; however, most Floridians are so acclimated to the blistering weather that you'll see guys wearing 3/2s once the water sinks to 70. Air temps, however, are the biggest concern. While the days will stay well above 65 for the most part, temps can drop significantly -- even freezing at times -- and most surfers find the wetsuit comes and goes with the winter's changing moods, stashing all but the lightest rubber by April. With or without the suit, these months comprise the Sunshine State's most surf-friendly season. Winter storms regularly cross the continental United States, move into the Atlantic and develop into powerful nor'easters -- storms that produce more waves and greater size annually than almost any hurricane season.
Spring
Spring usually starts out with winter's consistency, then drops off severely as summer approaches. By June it's all over, almost instantaneously, leaving many to savor May's final rogue north swell session or a string of springtime scores as their only solace through the coming doldrums. Suits fall to the wayside as spring signals an increase in water temps -- and another bout with baitfish and sharks. It's also when many surfers wallow in their final moments of weekday bliss at more popular surf spots, since school closes in early June to clog the lineups for two months or more.
Warning: antsy groms aren't the only potential pest to move in with the warming water. Every spring between May and June, surfers begin to fear the arrival of sea lice, jellyfish larvae that are undetectable until it's too late, resulting in a painful, itchy rash that can last for days. Suggested remedies vary from tomato juice and calamine to a Cortizone shot for the allergic; however, time is the only true cure. Fortunately, it only takes a single session to put a sea-lice infestation on the coconut telegraph -- or just watch for a steady stream of surfers fleeing perfect waves for no obvious reason.
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QUIKSILVER KING OF THE GROMS: EAST COAST
(06/10/08) 11-year-old Mauro Diaz wins first qualifier to become youngest King in history |
WHAT A TEASE
(09/11/07) Gabrielle brings some surf and more frustration to the East Coast |
THE OUTSIDERS
(03/06/07) PR's Bursian, Cali's Conlogue upset local field at Billabong Sebastian Inlet ASP Pro Junior |
OPEN WINDOW
(01/23/07) Damo, Kech and the Usual Suspects Score Sneaky Florida Tubes |
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GROMMY TIMES
(02/08/05) Learning more than just the ropes during Central Florida's last swell |
AFTER THE FALL
(09/22/04) Living Through and Reconstructing Florida After Hurricane Frances: Five Perspectives |
SEBASTIAN, ISN'T IT?
(07/07/03) Sometimes even one-day surf trips are too long |
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