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December 31, 2007
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In the Northeast, we get jazzed when we see a three to five-foot surf forecast.
It's a good size -- enough to do turns, but not big enough to shut down.
As we journeyed to Ireland for N'East Magazine, we had that in mind. It was a mellow crew: a few photogs, respected surfers, significant others, mag staffers, and a former professional snowboarder. This is not a traditional paradise. The water temps hover near 50 degrees, the winds are a factor, and the tidal swing is huge. Our frothing photogs Tommy Colla, (aka Snapwater) Ann Coen, and Nick LaVecchia shot through every kind of snot imaginable. |
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"At each stop along our tour, people were quick to react to our smiles with friendly conversation. There were welcoming locals, solid swell, and the most dynamic weather pattern I've ever witnessed, staged over lush countryside and beautiful urban architecture. It put this experience at the top of my list," says Colla. In addition to the surf, we anticipated learning about most of our ancestries and admiring the sights. A 50-foot swell crashing into the Emerald Isle was not part of the plan. At first, all was going to scheme. We'd posted up in cozy cottages, ordered Guinness, and enjoyed a pointbreak off a 900-year old castle. Then we noticed the reports and shades of crimson that we never knew existed, slamming into Ireland on the LOLA charts. What the hell did 50-foot mean, exactly? We weren't the only ones who noticed. N'East Publisher Jim McGinley wrote from Portland, Maine. Outlets of the US and global surf media had called the N'East Headquarters, hearing that we had a crew in Europe. He relayed the messages across the ocean. In correspondence with the Surfline staff, I saw forecaster Jon Warren's prior email. Massive lines hugged the point, setting up for hundreds of yards. Chargers careened down the face and navigated their way into the bay. We were in awe. How often do you ride a twelve-foot, or even six-foot wave without a good possibility of a punishing closeout section in Ocean City or Cape Cod?
Gulp. 100-year storm? At that point we realized that our trip had taken on a new dimension. Problem was, the winds were forecasted to be howling sideshore. The Irish newscasts were calling for the biggest surf in 30 years. Friday night, over a round of stout, it was decided that it was our job to cover the event. A few hours later, we began the long, dark drive to one of the only westerly-sheltered bays in Ireland. The effort was rewarded tenfold, as we wound our way into a harbor to see hard offshore winds, and a firing swell wrapping in from around the point. The waves weren't 50-foot. However, west-facing beaches actually did receive some 50-foot plus walls of disorganization crushing the picturesque coastlines. This bay was double-overhead, however, with a few bigger sets. "Our trip went from really fun to really radical the moment our dawn mission placed us at this pointbreak. I remember hearing Snapwater over the two-way radio say, 'Jack F@#*ing Pot' as we came around the bend. We all knew we were about to witness something really special," says Randy Gaetano, one of the original Burton Snowboard Team riders turned Grain Surfboards builder. A handful of European pros and various local wave junkies were already on it, when New Jersey's Jamie Moran, and Mass charger Josh Clements, paddled out, overexcited and undergunned. Massive lines hugged the point, setting up for hundreds of yards. Chargers careened down the face and navigated their way into the bay. We were in awe. How often do you ride a twelve-foot, or even six-foot wave without a good possibility of a punishing closeout section in Ocean City or Cape Cod? Clements fearlessly took off on his 6'3. Moran seemed to be thoroughly enjoying himself in the company of the friendly locals. He got off some of the best turns of the day and even found an impressive backside barrel. Colla donned full rain gear and shot for eight hours, despite six days of living in a wet campervan. "If you're like the hearty Irish and you don't let the weather dictate your activities or mood, you can have a great time and see some of the most gorgeous backdrops our planet has. Fresh Guinness is pretty nice too." The few imperfections worked themselves out by afternoon. "Compared to what we were expecting, it wasn't that big," says Keith O'Brien, of Tramore, Ireland, "but that wave period is so rare. Right before dark, it was pretty darn good." For the complete story, check out an upcoming Issue of N'East Magazine. MORE TRAVEL SURFLINE HOME PAGE |