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Back in 1972, 19-year-old
Sean Collins was sailing up the Baja coast with his dad and
a couple mates after a race in Mazatlan. They were bucking
strong northwesterlies and finally coasted into some smoother
water in the lee of a big headland. Sean had scoped out a
potential right-hander on the nautical charts that looked
like it'd be protected from the afternoon winds and wanted
to stop for a wave.
They laid anchor behind the lineup and Sean
paddled over for a few. He caught a couple head-high rights,
but the lineup was super rangey and there was lots of current,
making for a pretty unrewarding session.
"In less than an hour I was pretty much ready to get back
to the boat," Sean remembers. "Dusk was coming on quick, and
it was getting kind of spooky. Lots of life around with seals
coming really close, fish breaking the surface, lots of bait
getting pushed up by something underneath. Time to go."
But he made a mental note of the place
for future reference. "I just wanted to be sure to surf with
a few other people," he said. "So I could improve the odds
of the spookiness factor."
Thirty-two years later, he did his fist
visual recon mission.
In the spring of 2004 he managed to fly
over the zone in an Aero Commander, taking all kinds
of video and trying to figure out if his fantasyland still
existed. It did. "There was a solid, overhead groundswell
running and the right was firing with five stacked-up lines
racing for what appeared to be a couple hundred yards," he
smiles. "And then I noticed the left." It was only a matter
of time before he went back.
VIDEO:
 |
THE RIGHT: "It's a cool-water
Malaaea'', says Snips of this sand-bottomed right
hander. "Super fast, high, easy tube, completely
rippable.'' QUICKTIME
VIDEO WINDOWS
MEDIA VIDEO |
|
 |
THE LEFT: “Imagine a
cross between Cloudbreak and Restaurants, over sand''
Snips describes the left. "I'm still freaking
out about it.” QUICKTIME
VIDEO WINDOWS
MEDIA VIDEO |
|
Sean describes the next step: "After reviewing
the video shot from the air, every possible marine chart of
the area, and extensive research of the logistics, local terrain,
and access points, it became quite apparent that this was going
to be a very difficult place to get to -- and get out of. We
already tried to anchor a boat out there and that didn't work.
You can't fly and land there. You can't drive there. Even if
a panga dropped you off nearby on the beach you can't safely
paddle out to the lineup due to the currents -- and in some
areas you're nearly three miles offshore."
Introduce our new friend the Honda Aquatrax PWC, a GPS, SAT
phone, food, fuel, a couple he-man sized 4WDs and a crew strong
and experienced enough to deal with the unexpected -- Mike
Parsons, Brad Gerlach, Dino Andino, Jodie Nelson, Aaron Lloyd,
and Sean -- and you've got a Mission. "This was definitely
not just your 'throw your boards in the car and drive to Baja'
type of deal," Parsons says.
Plus, the swell window and optimum conditions
for the place was very specific, so Sean and crew had to wait
for just the right swell -- which took months to come together.
"Even as prepared as we thought we were,"
Sean says, "After the trip, we realized we were incredibly
lucky that nothing really went wrong."
Once they finally got out there and went
through the hassle of figuring out where to set up camp in
such a tidal zone, that's when the fun started. "Getting out
to the waves was interesting," Mike Parsons recalls. "The
wind was really heavy and the channel chop was huge and the
landmarks were difficult to work out 'cause it was all low-lying
scrub brush -- but I love that kind of stuff. I really enjoy
troubleshooting and trying to dial stuff like that in."
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"We made our way to the lineup pretty slow,"
Sean says, "but eventually we could see lines of whitewater
off in the distance. It looked like a right, but the perspective
was so big and the lineup so broad we couldn't really tell where
it was. After a couple minutes we finally saw a set and it was
like, "Whew. There it is." The wave was like a greenwater
Nias or something -- this perfect right zipping along the sandbar,
about three feet overhead and about as beautiful as waves get.
This is when all the planning and research all paid off."
And as the crew fanned out from the perfect
right to the perfect left, the PWC proved their worth in gold
-- and ended up bringing them closer together as well.
"We all learned a lot about each other
on the trip," Jodie Nelson says. "The day the left was firing,
Dino let me go first. It was amazing, pulling into stand-up
barrels and having him on the ski right there watching
and I could hear him hooting."
"It's a lot of teamwork," she went on.
"I wanted Dino to get the best waves, Dino wanted me to get
the best waves. Usually when you're surfing you're on your
own, you're off by yourself, but this was a really fun great
experience. It's amazing that something like that exists and
that we were able to participate in it."
Plus, The locals kept warning the crew about
the number of great white sharks. Said they were loco
to even think about surfing in that zone. As Jodie says, "We
were calling it 'sharky dot-com' out there. It was really eerie.
The skis were key." "You wouldn't
want to be swimming for more than a couple seconds out there,"
Snips agrees. "Especially at the left. Which was unbelievable,
by the way. It reminded of a mix between Cloudbreak and Restaurants,
but over sand. I'm really freaked out about the place and
can't wait to go back."
And after ten hours on the water, it
was typical Baja waiting for their return. "Dirt everywhere
and in everything," Sean smiles, "You're caked with salt and
sand and the wind howls all night. Not Tavarua, that's for
sure. But it's funny what perfect waves can do to your comfort
level."
But after a couple ten-hour days on the
skis, the swell started to drop and their bodies were almost
thankful. "Surfing perfect waves all day with no one out,
is an unreal experience," Sean says, "but bouncing around
on the skis without a break or much food or anything kinda
gets to you after a while."
Former pro and longtime industry vet Dino
Andino was frothing. "It was one of the best trips I've ever
been on," he says. "I was stoked to get down and dirty and jump
on the skis and find waves that no one knew how good they were.
It was cool 'cause a lot of times I go on trips where I go on
a plane and I know where the waves are, with plush surroundings
and everything. This trip made me feel like a surfer again."
Jodie Nelson agrees: "It was the
most grueling, physically taxing trip I've ever been on. Being
out in the water, in the elements, all day, all those days,
and the actual driving down there with the skis and the trailers
and the crazy big rigs on the two-lane Mexican highways, inches
away...setting up camp, breaking down camp, the wind the dust
you're dirty all the time. I vividly remember pulling up to
the hotel and dreaming bed, air conditioning, showers, food
... man. But I'd go back in a heartbeat."
Sean Collins sums it up: "I've done a
lot of Baja trips. Hundreds. But this one totally kicked our
asses! An extreme effort to get there, the unknown factors,
the camping situation, the dirt, the wind, the currents, watching
out for each other in an incredibly wild place, the sharkiness,
safety backups for everything, etc. But the waves were insane.
Funny how often some of the hardest Baja trips are the best."
--Marcus
Sanders
For more on Bahia de Tiburon, including
exclusive photos, check out the new Surfer's Journal, Volume
14, Number 2. --Ed
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