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Soup
is good food for the beginning surfer. |
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1. Prepare
for launch. Wade out far enough to give you a long ride.
2. Liftoff.
When a breaking wave approaches, get a little farther back on the
board than you normally would, push off the bottom with your feet
and take the whitewater straight toward shore.
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3.
Defy gravity. With your arms extended and your back arched,
ride the first few waves in prone position. When you feel comfortable
enough, attempt the pop-up method. Once you get to your feet, be
sure to keep your weight centered equally over both feet. Your hips
should be compressed and knees bent as opposed to sticking your
center out. All good surfers-even the tall ones-have a low center
of gravity.
4. Troubleshooting.
The transition from the prone to the pop-up position may not be
as easy in the water as it is on land. If you've mastered it on
the beach but can't seem to get the hang of it in the surf, check
for the following flaws: a) if you're tipping to the side, you're
off center; b) if you're digging the nose underwater, you're too
far forward and c) if you're regularly being passed up by the wave,
you're probably too far back.
5. Eject. No
matter how fast you get the hang of it, you're still going to wipe
out more often than you complete a ride. When you do wipe out, always
do your best to fall off the back and away from your board. If you
fall off head first, be sure to do a belly flop or a shallow-water
dive. Chances are you're going to be in shallower water, so you
want to avoid full impact with the bottom. When surfacing from a
wipeout, come up hands-first to protect your head. If you end up
pearling and fall off the front of your board, stay underwater for
a little longer to allow the board to pass, then surface hands-first.
After your first bad wipeout, you'll understand why it's a good
idea to invest in a protective helmet.
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