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Don't get
caught between a rock and a hard place. |
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Scan the horizon for sets of
waves approaching. Wait for a lull before making the initial charge.
Hold the slack of your leash so it doesn't drag or get caught in
any rocks. Never dive in to the surf zone because you never know
for sure what may be lurking on the bottom. As you're walking out
past the shorebreak, hold your board to the side and don't let your
board get between you and the breaking wave. Once again: it's important
to know your limits. Your first surf spot should have an easy entry
and exit, sand bottom if possible, with a minimum amount of people.
To jump off the rocks and into a jam-packed lineup at Steamer Lane
would be like a beginning skier charging a cornice bowl at Mammoth
on a holiday weekend.
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