Thou shalt
not use your surfing advantages to abuse your fellow surfers. This
includes advantages such as surfboard length, surfing fitness and
skill, local knowledge and authority, and (lamest of all) physical
aggression and strength.
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Getting your head around this profound and quite complex
piece of etiquette involves a willingness to acknowledge the advantage
itself. Not every longboard rider, for instance, knows he or she
has an extraordinary paddling advantage over almost every shortboard
rider in any lineup, anywhere. But he or she DOES; as does every
experienced local surfer surrounded by familiar faces and waves
at his or her local break; as does every pro surfer at almost every
Joe Average break on the planet; as does every large muscle-bound
martial arts expert or violent felon loose in the waves of Hawaii,
SoCal or southern Australia, for that matter.
Since we're all in the habit of chasing waves for
personal gain, it's only natural that during the chase, we'd wish
to use whatever advantages we possess. Here's the big, indeed, the
insurmountable problem with that kind of thinking: There's always
someone who's got a bigger advantage than you. There's always someone
bigger, better, with a longer board, with more authority, with more
inherent violence in his soul. Do you really want to live in a world
where that person can come along and take all your waves? Of course
you don't.
The whole idea of such mad social Darwinism is exactly
the opposite of what makes surfing fun in the first place. We're
trying to escape the rat-race, not become part of it!
Therefore, surfing etiquette requires that you be
fully aware of your advantages in the water, and conduct yourself
appropriately. Here is a short list of such advantages, and appropriate
actions:
The Core Local should at all times understand that
other surfers have a right to ride at the spot he knows so well,
and that his enhanced knowledge of the break gives him a responsibility
as much as a reward. His responsibility involves leading the wave-sharing
rhythm, keeping an eye on surfers who look like they might get into
trouble, putting a lid on any bullying of kids by older surfers,
and providing an example to the grommets and beginners of how to
behave in a wide range of surfing circumstances. Taking care of
these responsibilities will guarantee the reward (uninterrupted
choice of the best set waves). Ignoring them and taking the reward
anyway will guarantee ongoing ill-feeling in the lineup.
The Longboard Rider should be absolutely clear that
his or her craft provides an unfair paddling advantage which, if
abused, will quickly lead to resentment and hostility from surfers
who choose to ride shorter, more high performance equipment. He
or she should therefore be highly aware of the wave-sharing rhythm,
and be careful not to misuse paddling speed in a way that breaks
down that rhythm. Using the longboard to paddle in early from the
shoulder, or to 'lap' other surfers by racing to the takeoff
zone, is bad etiquette.
The Highly Skilled Pro holds a natural advantage over
almost everyone else in any lineup, thanks to his or her greater
paddling speed and wave judgement, and ability to take off deeper
with relative ease. The Pro should remember at all times that not
everybody in the water is engaged in a competitive surfing career,
and that this does not rule out others' right to a fair share of
waves. He or she should also be aware that fellow surfers may feel
uncertain, shy, or even humiliated by a pro's skill level and presence
in the lineup, and where possible, should break the ice with a smile,
a hello, and/or an offer of a wave or two.
The Bigger, Older Surfer should be aware that whether
he intends it or not, his physical presence may intimidate younger
smaller surfers, and should thus avoid any behavior that may - unintentionally
or otherwise - create fear in the hearts of his fellow surfers.
Instead, he should adopt the approach suggested for the Pro, above:
deliberate friendliness designed to foster a good example.
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