When traveling, thou shalt
respect the local surfers and their rights and customs, without
forfeiting your own right to a wave.
The term 'local' has nothing to do with
where a surfer's home is located, yet everything to do with his
or her long-term history at a particular surf location. If the surfer
in question is committed to the spot, his history will very likely
include epic days of surf and days of sloppy onshore junk; waves
ridden with crowds and with one or two buddies; 'fish stories'
about the biggest swell ever; sessions when the top local outsurfed
some well-known visiting pro; sessions when for a precious hour
or so, the surfer himself felt like he rode like Curren, or Slater,
or Lopez. All of this - along with local camaraderie, the coming-of-age
of the local grommets, maybe the death of one or more senior regulars
- will have passed unshared by the casual visitor (ie., YOU).
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This 'knowledge gap' becomes more and more marked
the further you choose to travel from your own regular surfing zone.
Travel to another country, and the gap can yawn much wider than
your skills can cross. That gap can only be crossed by nurturing
trust between traveler and local.
Therefore, it is most important for the traveling
surfer to observe some particular points of etiquette when approaching
a spot for the first time. Here are the key points:
Take your time. Whether you've spent an hour on the
freeway or a couple of days on a plane to get there, the basic rule
is the same - there's no need to rush. Watch the lineup closely
for at least an hour, taking mental notes on how many waves are
being ridden, from which area of the break they're being ridden,
and who's doing the riding.
Don't travel in large numbers. Consider the likely
impact of your arrival at a spot. Five or six surfers all showing
up together and charging out into surf where only a few people are
riding ... this will change everything about the session. If you're
traveling in such numbers to a new spot, be sensitive to the numbers
in the water. Again, take your time - the surfers already out will
eventually come in and make room for you. A good rule of thumb,
if there are a few guys out: avoid increasing the numbers in the water
by more than 25%.
Let the locals set the pace. How do things work in
this new lineup? While almost all the world's surf spots are run
by similar basic rules, there are a hundred localized versions of
surfing etiquette. At some (not many!) spots, it's even considered
OK to drop-in. The point is, it's up to you to observe and accept
that localized version. Fit into the regular surfers' rhythm, catching
the waves they give to you and giving them all the room they require.
As you do so, watch closely for possible variations on the basic
lineup codes, and take your cues from the local surfers' actions.
This may take more than one session to achieve.
Do not try to outsurf the locals. It doesn't matter
if they seem less skilled or sharp than you and your friends. Try
to take over the waves at that spot, and a local (or more than one)
will almost certainly use his or her superior knowledge of the spot
to confuse and frustrate you. Keep trying, and you're likely to
ruin everyone's enjoyment of the session. Instead, again, take a
back seat and let the local surfers dictate the pace of your surf,
until they're confident enough of your intentions to give you a
couple of set waves.
Leave the place clean. Not just in terms of physical
garbage, though that obviously matters too. Your visit should end
on a good note for all sorts of reasons, a big one being that every
uncouth, uncool action in the water will strengthen any local ill-feeling
toward the next traveling surfer. Therefore, after your surf or
surfs, say thanks to your fellow surfers for sharing the spot, sorry
to anyone you might have dropped in on by mistake, and let them
know they're welcome to visit the spot you call home in return.
A simple act of etiquette, yet it can and will work wonders.
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