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HOW
TO USE (BUT NOT ABUSE) LOLA
By
Sean Collins and Steve Hawk Copyright Surfline 2001 All rights Reserved.
These
maps allow you to zero in on a coastal zone and see how distant
swells are taking aim on your hometown. Swell Tracking Maps are
a way of translating straight lines from a three-dimensional globe
to a two-dimensional page. With flat maps of the earth, the shortest
distance between two points is actually a curved line, not a straight
one. These lines are called Great Circles.
IMPORTANT:
The colored lines on the Swell Tracking Maps and the colored numbers
in the text table on the left indicate what predicted SURF heights
will be when the waves break on the coast. (Surf heights are the
average to maximum breaking wave heigths measured on the face of
the wave from crest to trough.) They are not a measurement of what
the wave heights are farther out to sea.
To
see a looping sequence of how a specific swell will progress over
the next 120 hours (five days), click on the word "Loop"
above the map. To freeze the map at any point in the future, click
on one of the six numbers to the left of the word "Loop"
(0, 24, 48, etc.). If you click on the number 48, for instance,
the map shows what the incoming swell will look like two days from
today.
The
dated graph on the left forecasts combined deep water swell heights
over the next two weeks.
The
text table at the bottom left is a quick-reference, long term forecast
of size, wave period and direction for Surf Heights (breaking waves
on the coast) on the Swell Tracking Maps. Forecasts under three
days tend to be sharp, and anything between three and seven days
is typically reliable but not guaranteed. Forecasts that look ahead
more than seven days may include a lot of guesswork, but they can
alert you to potential storms and swells worth watching.
This
is a long-term, localized forecast showing the deep water wave period
and sizes of the top five incoming swell trains over the next 10
days. The colored lines represent different periods: blue for eight
seconds, red for 14 seconds, purple for 20 seconds, etc.
The
five rows of numbers below the chart show periods of the top five
swells over the same 10 days, with the strongest swells listed first.
This
page is a good way to measure the breadth of a swell, indicating
whether an incoming swell has a wide directional spectrum with a
15- to 90-degree variance in swell direction, or a narrow directional
spectrum with a 0- to 15-degree variance in swell direction. A storm
close to shore with a wide fetch will result in a wide directional
spectrum with a broader range of swell directions. If the swell
travels from a storm far away, or from a storm with a narrow fetch,
the directional spectrum will be narrow and the swell direction
will be focused within a few degrees. The narrow blue streaks running
vertically through the chart are not graphic mistakes -- they show
where oceanic islands will shadow a specific coastal zone from a
particular swell direction.
The
graph on the right (H) shows how deep water swell heights will progress
over the next 14 days, or 14 days beyond whatever date is picked
in the time-control bar in the chart's upper left-hand corner.
Your
locale is at the bottom of the map. This page helps determine whether
a swell is coming from a nearby storm or a distant storm. It is
nearly identical to the "Height
v. Time" page , except that it shows an incoming swell's
distance from your homebreak in nautical miles rather than hours.
The
graph on the right (H) shows how deep water swell heights will progress
as the swell train moves closer to your coast.
Intro
Buoy
Observations
Five
Day Forecasts
Swell Tracking Maps
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