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George Downing

Surfing Encyclopedia

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Largest Encyclopedia of Surfing

Largest Encyclopedia of Surfing

Largest Encyclopedia of Surfing

Sending people to the lions isn't an easy job. On your conscience, in front of a screaming throng, they will be torn limb from limb. The Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau is such a spectacle, but with one major difference -- the contestants have earned their coveted spot in the Waimea hierarchy with heroic exploits.

Still, to send these brave souls into the arena to face 20-foot beasts takes courage in itself. It takes a lifetime of staring over the precipice to know when to say, "Eddie will go." It takes a man like George Downing.

During World War II, a teenaged Downing went to live with his aunt in Honolulu. At the time, she was married to Hot Curl charger Wally Froiseth, who took Downing under his wing.

As big-wave riding was still in its infancy, their day trips to Makaha and the North Shore were forays into uncharted territory. Downing not only rode monster surf, he became its consummate student, intent on understanding and refining tactics and equipment. His scientific design research helped him create one of the earliest quivers with subtle variations in length, rocker and volume. He also created the first system of changeable fins.

In 1951, he constructed what is known as the first board for truly big surf, and it soon became the template for all serious surfers. He also studied the weather, the waves and the reefs that shaped them.

All of Downing's research and theories made him peerless in the water. Before him, survival was the only mission, but his speed-driven bottom turns and arcs at huge Makaha redefined what was possible. Inspired by images of Downing and Froiseth, among others, the first wave of Californians made their assault on the Islands.

Drawing on more than a half-century of first-hand experience, Downing has disseminated his unparalleled knowledge of heavy water to ensuing generations. He has coached the Hawaiian team to victory at the World Contest and continues to be active in surfing into his 70s.

As executive director of the Eddie, he alone has the power to decide whether the surf is substantial enough to meet the 20-foot minimum, but not so big that he'll put everyone's life at risk. It's a lot of pressure for one man, but then again, pressure is Downing's specialty. -- Jason Borte, October 2000