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This beautiful sand island resembles in some ways the Outer Banks off North Carolina - or what the Outer Banks might be, in their hallucinatory dreams. The source (of Straddie and its neighbor islands, Moreton and Fraser) is similar: ex-Ice Age meltdown and sea-level changes, helping to form sand barriers along a coastal fringe. But this being Australia, Straddie is far more exposed to swell, particularly from the south-east -- an angle in which much of the Queensland coast tends to suffer.
The epic wave on Stradbroke is Cylinders, a long right point style wave breaking along the northeast corner of the island and peeling for several hundred yards. Sandbottomed and somewhat tidal, Cylinders needs a strong east angle and handles large surf if the sand and swell is on the money. It's incredibly wind-sensitive; any breeze from the northern quadrants and you can forget it. But as with most of this coastline, large swells tend to arrive with storm-associated south winds -- a most happy combination.
South of Cylinders around the vast headland of Point Lookout, you're roaming into exceptional beachbreak territory. Thick powerful barrels smack close-in sandbars after reforming off outside bars. Best of all, they're sheltered by the headland from the constant summertime northeast seabreeze. All visiting surfers should be warned: this is serious shark territory, and all the typical precautions -- no dusk surfing, always ride with someone else, keep your eyes open, don't panic -- should be taken.
Far to the south, Stradbroke breaks off into an isolated sandspit island known as South Stradbroke, or "TOS" (The Other Side) to Gold Coast surfers, who often cross a water barrier known as the Seaway to access its beautiful beachbreaks. South Straddie's deep outside sandbars break up incoming swells into thick wedges, and the coast is angled to collect small Goldie-avoiding south swells even in less consistent winter months.
-- Nick Carroll
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Medium low
E/NE
Overhead
South for Cylinders, northwest for the beachbreaks
8
Sand
Intermediate-advanced
Shortboard, longboard, "funboard", six-channel, whatever
Year-round
Car ferry or water taxi across Moreton Bay from Cleveland (near Brisbane) to the north end; boat or short yet sketchy paddle across the Seaway at the south end
Excessive at times
Can be intense
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6
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Straddie's grown a bit more touristy over the past decade, but it's still not a big social center. You'll find pizza, fish and chips, hamburgers, pies and bakery stuff in the shopping village at Point Lookout. The Ship's Galley restaurant at Amity Point has bargain all-you-can-eat nights for $10 and a lot more, phone (07) 3409 7660. The Pub (the Point Lookout Hotel) is rightly legendary, it's got great views down the beach and classic Aussie pub food. Quite a few other small restaurants and cafes dotted about, mostly reasonable value.
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A small yet healthy range from camping to resort, all marked by an eco-consciousness that's notably absent on the Coasts to Stradbroke's north and south. Camping sites are widespread -- tent or caravan holidays are an Australian tradition -- and there's one site in particular, right in front of Cylinder Beach, which is pretty darn cool. Book prior to traveling with Stradbroke Island Tourism, 07 3409 9555. Backpacker style action can be found at Stradbroke Island Guesthouse (straddieguesthouse@redland.net.au), which provides a courtesy shuttle from Brisbane. A step up is the self contained cabins at Amity Bungalows ( www.amitybungalows.com.au) where $100 per night will get you one or two bedroom cabins that'll sleep five or more. Plenty of other options can be found at northstradbrokeisland.com.
Or try
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Surf. D'oh! It's an island! Seriously, scuba diving is a part of Straddie life, as is whale-watching from June through to September, when the humpback migration run comes past just offshore. But this is not a place for blood-crazed nightlife, it's a place for enjoying one of the world's biggest sand islands and its natural curves.
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That's easy, there's only one real surfboard shop: Bob Minty Surfboards. Bob's a Straddie boy through and through; his shop sells a full range of boards, new and used, does repairs, and Bob can organize surf coaching if you like. (07) 3409 8334.
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