The food stand at Ditch Plains isn't as greasy as you'd think. In fact, they offer veggie wraps and other healthy choices, if you're into that stuff. For dinner, you must have seafood, and you must have it at Shagwong (631-668-3050), The Harvest (631-6685574, Joel Tudor's favorite spot) or The Montauket (631-668-5992). Most eateries are way overpriced, so bring a wad or pack a lunch. It helps to be affiliated with the mob.

Book well in advance for a summer stay, if you're lucky enough to get a place at all. The East Deck Inn at Ditch Plains (631-668-2334), while exorbitant in-season, is downright cheap in September and October, which are the best times to catch surf. Atlantic Terrace (631-668-2050) is right on the beach, overlooking one of the better breaks in town. Gurney's (631-668-2345) is the poshest place around, so a room will run around $300. About 20 minutes from the point, Hither Hills Campground offers affordable tenting.

Fishing around Montauk is excellent, especially on the North Shore. Surf casting and charter boats out of Montauk Marina will yield a healthy catch. Striped bass are slain en masse. For the aggro-minded, Montauk Skate Park (take a left at the Mobil station) offers plenty of ramps and bowls to grind upon. If you'd rather ride something living, hop on a horse at The Ranch. Montauk is a bit of a melting pot in itself; so, come nighttime, get ready to go big. The Surf Side is loaded with foreign models looking for a little American action.

The island's North Shore (there's no surf there despite the name; it faces the Long Island Sound) was considered the Gold Coast during the Roaring '20s, when tycoons such as Vanderbilt, Chrysler, Woolworth and Guggenheim erected stately mansions and held extravagant parties, providing the scene for The Great Gatsby. Route 25 runs its scenic length and is definitely worth the drive.

Air and Speed, 631-668-0356
Woody's, Shirley, 631-281-0008