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SURF NEWS PHOTOS STANDING ALONE
SURF NEWS STANDING ALONE
September 16, 2008
35360 views | 96 comments
I met Kelly Slater for the first time in Chile, during Rip Curl's 2007 Search event. I recall being struck by how dissociated he seemed from the boys'-club melee of the competitors' tent. Andy Irons and Mick Fanning presided with the swagger of born leaders, each the nucleus of his respective clique.
 
Meanwhile, Kelly melted into the scenery like a ghost. He was the elephant in the room--a figure so larger than life that his peers appeared hesitant to acknowledge him. Later they cheered ecstatically, with almost religious fervor, as Kelly lost his heat. Slater gave a disillusioned post-heat interview, and the retirement rumors sprang up like spring wildflowers. The Top 45 optimistically whispered to each other, barely able to contain their excitement, "He might be done! FINALLY!"

It struck me then that being Kelly Slater was perhaps a much tougher job than I'd ever imagined.

Of course, Kelly was not done. After sticking it out through a frustrating, stop-start 2007 world title race, he emerged in 2008 with rejuvenated focus. The results speak for themselves: four wins in the first five events. Each time the industry has been ready to hand his crown to a fresh young hero, Slater has put the kibosh on his ascension. The achievements of his current closest rivals--Andy Irons, Mick Fanning--look modest in comparison to Slater's horde of records. No one in the history of our sport--arguably, no one in the history of any sport--comes close.

Kelly Slater stands alone. But there's the rub: Try standing alone sometime, at a party, for instance, while everyone watches. It's a lonely, isolating experience. And perhaps the loneliness is only heightened when the vast majority of people who love you have, in fact, never met you.

I interviewed Kelly in May 2008, directly before he left for Fiji and yet another victory. The premise was simple: an interview devoid of tedious questions regarding fame, famous women, and Slater's potential for 10 world titles. Instead we talked about professional surfing. Kelly was generous with his time and candor, speaking with the mature introspection of someone who's been forced to grow up and develop in public. Here are some highlights from our conversation.

When you first came back on tour in 2002, you noted that one of your goals was to help change the ASP, as opposed to just winning titles. How do you feel about the progress that's been made in the last six years?

I think there's been some good progress made in certain ways. Obviously with two wave scores counting instead of three, it does allow the better surfing to win, generally. There's the video replay thing now--the first time we did that, I think, was at my Fiji Invitational event a few years ago. The one thing I will say is it's a little bit frustrating with the ASP, to be honest, because every five or eight years it seems like there's some monumental idea to change things...but I'm not sure if there's a whole lot of tangible difference. At the end of the day there's not more dollars in it. We're still surfing with the same prize money as years ago. The price of living has gone way up, the cost of housing has tripled, and the amount of money guys are making hasn't gone up.

So it proves surfers don't do what they do for money. They do it for the love of what they do. The reward for us is getting to surf those waves with only one other guy out. Spots like J-Bay, Pipe, G-land back in the day... That's really more the payment for us, when we get classic conditions and it really is the Dream Tour. We get to have that experience of controlling those lineups, probably the only time in your life with one other guy out. That's more our payment right there.

I don't know what the answer is to the question; why isn't it bigger? Why isn't the ASP a stronger business presence? There's something inherently missing in the professional side of it, and I don't know if that finger should be pointed and blamed on administration, or if it's just the nature of what we do. I can't say it's not a marketable thing, but it's not based on marketing.

I'm starting to think of ways for professional surfing to be presented a little bit differently. Does everyone have to surf against everyone, or can we start thinking about who people want to see surf against each other, and base events around that?

I'm just a little fed up with ASP, as are most of the guys on tour right now. We butted heads with them about a few things, when it really should be seen as our organization. It's not unlike the people of a country getting upset at their government. There's this us-against-them feel, when it's actually supposed to be our government. We're supposed to be all for them, but the pro surfers, a good percentage of them, view the ASP as limiting us, limiting what can be done in some way. So there's a sense of frustration there when you talk to me.

Let's talk about rivalries. Here's a quote from an interview you did in '98 with Surfing magazine: "Without those rivalries, surfing would falter, without certain rivalries surfing won't evolve, won't improve as quickly as it can." That was before you ever really faced Andy Irons. One could argue you didn't face any rival who was evenly matched for those first six titles. Do you feel like any of the guys in the '90s were true rivals?

I don't know how to exactly answer that. I always felt, always had this really strong conviction, that I was going to win, no matter what. And, you know, same with MR [Mark Richards] being the most humble guy in the world, but he says that in those years that he was winning the world title, he just felt that he was better than everybody. And you have to on some level sort of believe that. You never act that way, but you have to have that belief that you can outdo anyone competitively. It doesn't necessarily mean you're the best surfer, but you can figure out how to get it done within the rules of what you're given.

But there wasn't anyone until Andy that I felt like they didn't have any kinks in the armor. Andy was the first guy that I've surfed against--and I'd say the only guy in my career at this point--that I feel like he's good in all conditions and he's proven he can win in all different types of surf. And the places that maybe he wasn't great at, he learned to be. I think at one point he wasn't great at J-Bay, and I think he figured the wave out, figured out how to ride it, what to do, and the next thing you know he won the event there. He's a smart competitor, he's in your face, he's very aggressive...he was the first guy that I ever felt like was a threat in every way.

Seeing the '90s through that lens, in that way, do you feel cheated at all, that no one did rise to that challenge and push your performance? Would you have liked to see a rival push you as hard as Andy did in the next decade?

I don't know...I don't know. Because the level at which surfing was, my whole desire was to be better than that level, no matter what that level was at. I tried to get myself to a place where I didn't look to what other people were doing. I tried to look beyond that, more like at what was possible, what people weren't doing. And I tried to use that as a standard to learn from.

Your first year on tour, you didn't really get the warmest reception from veterans like Elko [Gary Elkerton] and Pottz [Martin Potter]. How do you compare that to how people are reacting to Jordy [Smith] and Dane [Reynolds] this season?

I can understand [veterans'] feelings now, in some way. I personally like Jordy and Dane a lot; they're both nice kids, and they surf amazingly. But I can also understand when something changes and the possibility of you becoming irrelevant looms ahead--that can be a scary feeling. But the thing is, if your mind is open and you're willing to learn and see new things, you never get yourself in that position. Things change. It's just a fact of life. A couple years ago Andy obviously had some sort of antagonizing quotes that probably got taken out of context and used, and I don't know, maybe he even felt them in those moments, or whatever, but Surfing mag, I think, ran a cover with the new-generation kind of thing, sort of "Where is Surfing Now?", and I obviously wasn't involved with that. Those are sort of challenges, to see how comfortable you are with yourself.

I can't say I've never had any feelings come up...but as of now--obviously, I just won a couple contests--I guess my surfing is still relevant to what's happening now [laughs]. I like to think I'm still learning, and it's more of the idea of what's been done before, what's the standard of life, when people peak, when they're able to do things. And I think Kareem Abdul Jabbar played in the NBA 'til he was, like, 41 years old, and that was totally unheard of. My third year on tour, '94, Pottz was, like, the oldest or second oldest guy on tour. He was 28, and he was retiring that year.

And to think back now, I sort of retired at 26, but it had nothing to do with my surfing. It had to do with how I felt mentally and emotionally. I didn't know where to go or what to do at that point with my career. I needed to go off and do things personally. Even now, I just turned 36 years old and I think there's a couple physical things--I have a couple of old injuries I need to work out, but they're not killing me by any means, and I feel like there's nothing really new being done. There's not a new magical line on a wave that's never been done and now it's being seen. But guys like Dane and Jordy, they've been able to consistently put together big multiple moves on one wave, put power surfing and air surfing all together. And that's really where I envisioned surfing being, when I got on tour, and now it's kinda there. Where does it go now?

I think in hindsight it's clear that's what you were trying to do when you first came on tour. But at the time it wasn't well received by those older guys... Was there ever a point where you questioned the validity of your approach?

In '93 or '94 I remember seeing [Tom] Curren go for a reverse in Japan. And that just answered it all. I thought, "It's totally valid." Because to me he was the guy who knew everything. I mean, he obviously didn't know airs, but as far as what you're supposed to do on a wave, what's acceptable--Curren was the Phil Edwards for my generation. He set the style of what was acceptable, and cool and stylish and good. And I saw him go for a reverse, and he didn't pull it off, but I thought, "Oh, cool! It's valid. He's trying to do that."

So do you find yourself looking to Jordy and Dane now, and trying to pick things up from them?

Oh, totally. I see Dane regularly pulling off airs, switching stance in the air, trying to pull off kickflips, but I feel totally open to all that sort of stuff. The moment that I'm not, I should stop surfing contests. As soon as I feel that my mind has shut off or that my surfing is irrelevant, I'm done.

Do you think you'd ever walk completely away from it, pull a Greg Noll? Go live inland and play golf or something?

Oh, no. I would never stop surfing. Never, never, never. But as far as competition, being a professional, your goal is to try to be at the forefront of a professional sport. If you're not at that point any longer, and if it's clear you're not going to ever be back at that point, it's giving you a sign.

In 2001, before rejoining the tour, you said, "I guess I want to really enjoy being on the world tour this time... It was tough to enjoy myself when I was trying so hard to win." Have you enjoyed yourself more this time around?

In the time I took off the tour I learned a lot of things, and probably the biggest one was just being present in the moment. I spent a lot of time worrying about the future, thinking about things in the past, just personal things for me to get through, my own life challenges. When I started to really be present in the moment, then my life became all about the journey I was on and where I was at, as opposed to trying to obtain something. That allowed me to enjoy so much more of my time on tour, the people I was around, my life.

But at the same time, being on tour has been much more fulfilling in a lot of ways. You know, with me and Rob [Machado], for instance, we had probably some things that went unspoken for years, and it came between our friendship on some level. Now I think that I'm able to see things a little differently, deal with things more straight up than I used to... A friendship is so much more important than winning a contest, or a heat. It sounds stupid to even say; those are two things that shouldn't even be in context with each other... But there's a balance you need to have because of the nature of competition... At its most basic level, someone wins and someone loses. Someone gets what they want, and someone doesn't. That's a tricky thing when friendships are brought into that mix.

"I was stuck for 16 months without a win there, and now I've had five this year. Once you break that barrier for yourself it makes it easier; you're not thinking about it... It opened up the floodgate for me."
- Kelly Slater
Yeah, especially when you're always the one winning and getting what you want. Do you ever look at those guys like Rob, who never got their title despite arguably deserving it? Is there any sadness for you, that you amassed six through those years and those guys never got even one?

I don't know. Looking back, there's been these guys who are runner-up. Taj [Burrow] was once or twice, Parko [Joel Parkinson], Elko a bunch of times, Cheyne [Horan] a bunch of times, Rob once or twice... Those are all guys who fit into the history of our sport, and they each have their own place. But at the same time, the results you get in life are part of your journey, part of what makes you who you are, allows you to learn things about yourself. If you're winning a lot, or all the time, or more than you should or something, that also can be hard when you have it. Which I experienced competitively, and I experienced personally too, on different levels, with relationships and different things. The flip side of it is, if you have someone who gets really close, but doesn't quite obtain that, there's a whole different lesson for them.

If you look at it right, it's no worse or better. But from a career standpoint obviously it's nice to get that win. As a competitor, I'd never give some of those up. But at the same time, I'd like to have seen Rob win his title. I'd like to have seen Cheyne Horan win his title...

But obviously you had a much more direct effect over whether Rob won his, versus whether Cheyne Horan won his. So how about these people who say your dominance hasn't been good for the sport. What would you say to that?

I don't know. Has it not been, is that the case? I don't know... When anyone holds a solid place in a sport for a long time, is that good or bad? I don't know how to answer that. Probably the most dominant person ever in any sport is Tiger Woods. He's been number one in the world, except for a month or two, for, like, eight or 10 years. And I don't see that as having hurt golf.

No, it's been great for golf.

For any sport to capitalize on what's happening... I did say once that rivalries are really important, but it's also how it's marketed and presented to people. It's a weird thing to talk about when it's me. It's easier to look at things from an outside perspective and be fair and unbiased.

Last year wasn't the easiest year for you competitively. It seemed like guys kept having the heat of their life against you every single contest.

[Long pause.] Good for them [laughs]... That's a compliment, to be able to somehow pull that out of guys. If I lose a heat and some guy went off, I don't get mad at all. I get a little frustrated at opportunities missed, like Teahupo'o was a huge opportunity missed...[but] there's something for me to learn from it. I look back now and see not everything is going to go my way this year. The first couple [events] did, but sometimes things go against you. You have to learn something from that, pick up and see where it takes you.

Is there motivation in those missed opportunities?

I don't know. I've been thinking about it. If I were to win a ninth title this year, everybody and their brother would have spoken for my next year already, saying I have to go for 10. So there's a part of me that almost doesn't want to win, for that reason. It puts me on tour for another year at least, trying, and then if I don't win, what? What if I came close? What if I were to win nine, and then potentially the next year come sorta close, and I'm looking at 38 years old... Eighteen years of doing the same thing every year gets old.

It seems like it would be almost impossible to be immune to the pressures and expectations that come along with all of it.

Sometimes it does feel like that; when you have a schedule, it does feel like a job. How many people out there have the same job for 18 years? Do the same thing every year? Eventually you feel like you're over it. At that point you have to be in the moment more than you have been.

It's a real challenge to find the right way out.

Yeah, what's the right way? Do I wait 'til I'm losing and then get out?

The problem with going out on top is that you're still on top. You know you can still win; you did it the last contest. It would be hard to walk away when you know you can still do it.

Yeah, yeah. And the other thing that comes up with that is...there are very few pro surfers who have retired well. And I'm not talking about financial gains or anything, I'm talking about, there's been such a reluctance from a lot of guys in terms of setting their lives straight, knowing what they want in terms of what's after pro surfing. The idea of not holding on to something. Making that choice and moving on to something else you love. Going for it.

Do you ever think you'd be involved with pro surfing post-retirement, helping shape the sport, like, say, Rabbit [ASP President Wayne Bartholomew] has?

I'm actually quite passionate about certain aspects of helping change the competitive side of surfing, the sport of it, but I really doubt I'd do it as a job. I'd do it more for fun, to help out.

One of the biggest issues--I'd assume you'd notice after doing it this long--is intellectual suffocation. Don't take this wrong, but in the surf industry you're dealing with stupid people on a daily basis.

[Slater laughs.]

At least that's been my experience.

Have you found somewhere in the world where there's no stupid people?

Well, in certain fields stupidity is a barrier to entry. And that's not the case in surfing, at least not working for the media or brands.

I'd argue that in professional surfing, at least the level I want to do it, there is a limit. Stupidity is a barrier. You can't achieve the greatest extent in what you want to do, whether it's surfing or nuclear physics, without having an open mind, being smart, being able to make good judgments and decisions about situations and observations of different viewpoints of things.

But one could argue that's another reason you've been as successful as you have been. It's not just about natural talent and competitiveness, it's about an intelligence that's lacking in some of the guys you've surfed against.

Well... Yeah, I guess. I won't say...

I'm saying it, not you. That's just my take on it.

[Slater laughs.]

Did you ever feel like you lost out on the chance to go to college, have those experiences?

Yeah, early on I thought about that. I thought about it at the time. But what comes around, goes around. My girlfriend now is going to college. I'm experiencing it through her.

The thing about school is you don't come out any more intelligent than you went in. You're the same person. I just got introduced to different stuff that I might otherwise not have been introduced to.

Most of the things people learn in college, they're not so passionate about. It's not because they wake up in the morning thinking about it, go to sleep thinking about it; it's because they have to get this piece of paper, pay off the loans they've spent years building up. It's not necessarily about the love you have for something; it's about the need. The "having to do something."

Yeah, most people don't love school like we love surfing. But even for me, being vaguely involved in the surf industry, I'll go through days where all I talk about is surfing. Every conversation. And when you finally meet someone who isn't a surfer, and you get to talk about something else, it's a relief. You're so happy not to have to talk about surfing anymore.

Do you know how often I want to tell people to f--k off 'cause they want to talk about surfing? [Laughs.] I'll meet someone and maybe they don't surf, maybe they sort of do, and all of a sudden they start asking me, "Oh, what was it like..." about competitions, my life, surfing... You have no idea how boring that is for me. You have no idea how uninteresting that sounds to me.

Which is the irony, of course, 'cause that's exactly what I've been doing for the last hour.

***

In the weeks after our interview, Slater's casual dominance continued, with another set of back-to-back victories in Fiji and South Africa. Amazingly, Kelly's win streak was not quite unprecedented - he'd won 4 out of 5 to begin the '97 season as well.

After J-Bay I asked Kelly if his current streak felt different: "That one back then actually felt easy. I guess when you win it is easy, sorta. Or it appears to be. It's just the same when you lose and winning seems so far from you. Certain choices take over your mind and make things easier or harder in life." Kelly also alluded to a common thread between both streaks - stability in his personal life. "When I won so much in '96 -'97, I was in a relationship and although not as content as I am today, I was more stable than I normally am," Kelly told me. "When I act from a good place my results have definitely been much better on every level."

With title number 9 seemingly in the bag, the question on everyone's mind is whether Slater will go for 10. "People are talking about next year already," Kelly acknowledged. "I like where it's at now." Kelly noted that he doesn't get to carry-over momentum from this year in any tangible way. "It sure would make the idea of going for 10 seem a little 'closer' but I still need to do work... We start a new year with 0 pts and number 1 is equal to number 45."

After stumbling in Indonesia, Slater recently returned to the winner's podium yet again with a win at Trestles - his 5th in 7 events. I spoke with Kelly on the podium, as the beer swollen crowd began to dissipate around us. There wasn't much to say, from a certain perspective - we both laughed for a moment at the sheer improbable ridiculousness of it all. No matter how dominate Slater had been through his career, his current streak seemed absurd.

I asked Kelly what had changed from a year ago, when his 2007 victory at the Boost had broke Tom Curren's all-time-wins record, ending Slater's personal victory drought. "I was stuck for 16 months without a win there, and now I've had five this year," Kelly told me. "Once you break that barrier for yourself it makes it easier; you're not thinking about it... It opened up the floodgate for me."
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Comments: (96)    Add Your Comment
dr ben 09/22/2008 01:25 AM
Kelly, you have come a long way since your movie where you chew with your mouth open eating cereal and answering stupid interview questions. The questions may sometimes still be stupid but your answers are great. And you are the greatest surfer on tour, your surfing is better (when it counts) than anyone elses. It is awesome being your fan and watching you win close heats, especially when you rally from behind(Bells, Fiji, Trestles). With jetski towbacks to the lineup you can be champ forever
Rick Simon 09/21/2008 12:08 PM   * PREMIUM MEMBER - Real Name
Thank you Kelly for being a great role model, not only for our youth but for other professional athletes.
Tim 09/20/2008 09:33 PM
Kelly is unreal and we are nothing more that ultra fortunate to be alive and surfing witnessing kelly while he is alive and surfing.
Bryan Stroud 09/19/2008 02:14 PM   * PREMIUM MEMBER - Real Name
Great interview. Nice to see someone else comment on how the rampant stupidity in the surf industry is one thing holding it back. Not that I care how much pros are getting paid, I just get sick of hearing them complain about it when things like the quality of online contest broadcasts is comical, and high school athletes hoping for careers in mainstream pro sports already have better interview skills and work ethics than the pro surfers complaining.
landlocked surfer 09/19/2008 02:04 PM
Albeit the excellent questions... you really should have used the bold font for Kelly's deep yet laid-back replies.
Rodrigo Coppelli 09/19/2008 02:04 PM   * PREMIUM MEMBER - Real Name
Dude, I'm sure that the number 25 seed in the ASP is more popular amongst his peers than kelly. It's got to be hard to be stalwart winner every single time in a sport; all the other competitors hate you. I don't envy him; he does sound lonely.
paul SD CALI 09/19/2008 01:45 PM
No worries man your the best at what you love and I like that. When you retire I'll and reach that age where you're riding a cuiser you'll be what you've always loved "SURFING" PEACE Keep Doing What youre doing and GOD BLESS
Jose de la Rosa 09/19/2008 12:30 PM
Thank you for being an inspiration to us all Kelly, thank you
Todd Kimura 09/19/2008 09:34 AM
In my mind KS is the greatest professional surfer our sport has seen. Even with his great achievements he's humble, continues to learn, a true waterman who doesn't snake waves because of his status. He's respectful and just wants to have a good time like everyone else. Alex's comment a great example. KS demonstrates the soul of what pro surfers should strive for. I don't know about the Abu statement. Only KS can explain his motive, I'm just glad he doesn't act like Ali. God be with you KS.
Juan Tanaka-Pulpo 09/19/2008 08:59 AM
Thanks, teacher Kelly, you spoke because you know! Sensei, Banzai!!
bruce becker 09/18/2008 11:24 PM
9,10,15, i think the key is exactly like k.s. said..., stay in the moment.let the future unfold on it's own.
Carlos 09/18/2008 10:23 PM
great article...KS blends a level headed humility into it all which makes his relevant and exciting surfing a beautiful thing
Michael Craig 09/18/2008 10:18 PM   * PREMIUM MEMBER - Real Name
It wasn't so much what Kelly said that caught my attention. It was a topic you broached Lewis. The culture of stupidity accepted and even embraced within surfing. It's frustrating and depressing, because ignorance makes for a short and uninteresting path through life. Thank you for having the nuts to ask this question while a lot of poeple are paying attention.
Tokyo Dave 09/18/2008 10:11 PM
note to self: If I ever meet Kelly, don't ask him about surfing.
Sean Matranga 09/18/2008 09:50 PM
Thanks for puting it all into perspective for us Kelly! Great Quote... I spent a lot of time worrying about the future, thinking about things in the past, just personal things for me to get through, my own life challenges. When I started to really be present in the moment, then my life became all about the journey I was on and where I was at, as opposed to trying to obtain something. That allowed me to enjoy so much more of my time on tour, the people I was around, my life. - Kelly Slater
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