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This feature is for informational purposes only. Maverick's is a very deadly wave for all surfers and there are no lifeguards or other personnel that can be relied on in any capacity to help in the event of a problem. As discussed in the beginning of this feature, aspiring new Maverick's surfers are greatly discouraged from putting themselves in harms way, or at the very least to study the break for a long period of time with the help of a very experienced local surfer. Inexperienced surfers in the lineup are a great hazard for everyone. Sean... Photo: Rob Gilley
Carlos Burle. Photo: Rob Brown
Shawn Barney Barron. Photo: Doug Acton
Photo: Don Montgomery
Photo: Doug Acton
In this graphic all of the swells in the open ocean are the same height but are at short (10"), mid (14"), and long (18") periods. The difference in swell period will result in different surf heights as the swells shoal over shallow water. The longer 18-second swell will usually produce surf 2X the original deepwater swell height, while surf from the short 10-second swell would be about the same as the original deepwater height.
Brock Little. Photo: Doug Acton
Crazy wave wrapping and refraction around the Farallon Islands and the Cordell Bank depending on the swell period.
Photo: Doug Acton
Bathymetry credit to USGS and the Seafloor Mapping Lab CSUMB. Wave refraction by Surfline.
If You Were A Wave... Underwater view of a long-period swell approaching the Maverick's bathymetry, and then circling back to check out the view. Google Earth.
Zach Wormhoudt. Photo: Doug Acton
Bathymetry credit to USGS and the Seafloor Mapping Lab CSUMB. Wave refraction by Surfline.
Shane Desmond. Photo: Rob Brown
Photo: Doug Acton
Ion Banner. Photo: Rob Brown
Nice view of the underwater bathymetry curving out to sea that magnifies and focuses swell energy into Maverick's. Google Earth.
Photo: Doug Acton
Notice the buoy locations at 700 miles, 350 miles, and 20 miles offshore. Great for monitoring new swells on their way.
Photo: Doug Acton
Doc Renneker. Photo: Doug Acton
Image courtesy NOAA
Images courtesy NOAA and Navy Research Lab Monterey
An example of Surfline's LOLA swell sorting on the Monterey Bay buoy off Santa Cruz. The top BLACK line is the significant wave height reported by the buoy. On this day there isn't much difference between this height and the underlying swell, but this can vary greatly when there are multiple swells from various directions.
When Carlos Burle caught this wave outside, it may have been one of the largest waves ever ridden. It was also a XXL winner. Part Two has the answers. Photo: Courtesy Billabong XXL

MECHANICS OF MAVERICK'S

Published: November 16, 2011
Visits: 92,971
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Tony 11/25/2011 01:04 PM

I will never surf there but am fascinated with the spot and those who can surf it. Thank you for the lesson, Sean.

steve reynolds 11/21/2011 11:35 AM

Surfline's Comments presents top of the line, fully researched data, with knowledgeable professionals using an intelligent discussion format not found anywhere else in sports. Thank you for your refreshing approach to Surfings most important topics, locations, and practitioners. a long time surf-fanattic, only1.fattydaddy

John Spence 11/20/2011 09:17 AM * PREMIUM MEMBER - Real Name ** EDITOR'S PICK

This is the best Surfline article I have seen. Great use of graphics. Great techincal description. Great information for anyone wanting to give this spot a go. For years I have been concerned about the way spots are portrayed in the media..diminishing the dangers of a serious wave. How many guys have gone on surf trips completely unprepared for the wave they we were getting into. Mavs beginners--you are forewarned. Make sure you have the skil set.

Reed 11/18/2011 06:38 PM

Growing up in Nor CAl...surfing heavy north coast I learned to respect this spot...many thanks for this...unreal We Miss you Jay...charge it Moose

oscillator 11/18/2011 11:25 AM

re: Dan Schechter's analysis http://www.earthscienceworld.org/images/search/lightboxhires.html?ID=hfz2dz

jim_collins 11/18/2011 10:07 AM

Great use of images, not so great use of the apostrophe. Yes: Maverick's power is strong. Maverick's a powerful wave No: this area produces many Maverick's.

Editor reply:
Ha ha! You're absolutely right. I'll blame the editors! Sean...

Mike 11/18/2011 12:06 AM

Great depth. How about similar looks at Rincon, Steamer Lane, Pipeline and te Wedge

Dan Schechter 11/17/2011 03:23 PM * PREMIUM MEMBER - Real Name ** EDITOR'S PICK

Fascinating! Sean, you may be interested to know that the "racetracks" of grooved rock on the sea bottom are probably uptilted sedimentary layers that were sliced off by marine terraces when sea levels were lower (during the Ice Ages). I think these are truncated synclines and anticlines and domes -- not sure. But they act as wave guides for the big swells -- amazing! Thanks again.

Editor reply:
Thank you! Those are such unique underwater formations and good to have such a great explanation. Thanks! Sean...

Jeb 11/17/2011 01:00 PM

Sick analysis, great, all parameters taken into count. Thanks a lot I wish bathymetry, and swell data could be available for most coasts on earth.

Editor reply:
Thanks. Bathymetry and swell data is available everywhere on Earth, and Surfline uses the bathy worldwide to adjust our LOLA global swell/surf forecasts. You can use the Custom Surf Forecast tool in a Google map interface to create a detailed 7-day surf forecast for any point on Earth. Sean...

Frederick Mesmer iii 11/17/2011 12:15 PM

Awsome

BG 11/17/2011 06:30 AM

love this stuff...need more

FSB 11/16/2011 09:07 PM

Agree, great critique of why we see the waves we do at Mavericks and great graphics succinctly conveying the key concepts discussed.

Peter Register 11/16/2011 07:13 PM * PREMIUM MEMBER - Real Name

Just incredible analysis and explanation of a surf spot. Thanks for sharing. You should include a quiz at the end? It would be fun to see how little I really know....

chris 11/16/2011 03:39 PM

FANTASTIC use of images... great job.

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MECHANICS OF MAVERICK'S

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