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Endless
Summer
(Bruce Brown, 1966)

| The
music, the photography, the narration, the gags, the adventure and,
most of all, the spinning, dreamy peelers at Cape St. Francis -- almost
35 years after its coast-to-coast big-screen release and subsequent
glowing reviews in Time, Newsweek and The New Yorker
-- Endless Summer still hits all the right notes. The untouchable
surf movie. |
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Morning
of the Earth
(Alby Falzon, 1972)

| Bucolic
Australian countryside, organic produce, a bearded Nat Young as Surfing
Moses parting the waters at Byron Bay, young Terry Fitzgerald body-torquing
at Rocky Point, Michael Peterson in the tube at Kirra -- all this,
plus a first look at the mystical Balinese reefbreaks. A lovely, stony
surf film. |
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Free
Ride
(Bill Delaney, 1977)

| Delaney
and cameraman Dan Merkel set a film-quality standard with Free
Ride that wouldn't be met until Jack McCoy hit peak form in the
mid-'90s. It's memorably a chronicle of Pipeline/Off the Wall during
the Hawaiian winter of 1975 -'76, but the Australian and Indonesian
segments are excellent as well. (California is written off -- as was
fashionable at the time -- as crowded, gray and dirty.) Mark Richards,
Wayne Bartholomew and Michael Tomson are great in support and help
make the point that the Hawaiians would have to step aside for the
hot, young Aussies and South Africans. But Free Ride is really
Shaun Tomson's film, and the lines he draws in the tube -- frontside
and backside, and often with a joyous smile on his face -- are still
in use and virtually unchanged today. |
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Pacific
Vibrations
(John Severson, 1979)

| A
lost classic. But not the lost classic it could have been,
had Severson secured the rights to the Beatles music he had cued up
in the film's original version. Not a bad soundtrack even so, with
Steve Miller and Crosby, Stills and Nash heading the roster. Jock
Sutherland and Bill Hamilton team up for an expertly photographed
and edited trip to Maui; cameos by wave-ski master Merv Larson (ripping
and tailsliding at Rincon in 1969 the way Slater would in the early
'90s), Corky Carroll (riding artificial waves at the Big Surf wave
pool in Tempe, Arizona) and soon-to-be-world-champion Rolf Aurness.
Ponderous in spots and some of the "art" moments are either dated,
or didn't work to begin with. Still, the love and craftsmanship Severson
put into Pacific Vibrations comes shining through, and it's
too bad that this one isn't yet available to the general surfing public. |
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Surfing
the '50s
(Bud Browne compilation, 1994)

| "Look
closely at the faces in that video," 1964 world champion Midget Farrelly
said after Surfing the '50s was released. "There was just something
so uncorrupt about these people's involvement with surfing -- something
so honest. What a rich, beautiful scene." Highlights from eight of
Browne's films from the '50s and early '60s are here, and it is
rich and beautiful. And it's thrilling, too, with huge, glassy Makaha
Point surf and a short bit on the tension-filled morning of November
7, 1957, when Greg Noll led the first charge at Waimea Bay. There's
essential footage of Buzzy Trent, Chubby Mitchell, Marge Calhoun,
Phil Edwards, Dewey Weber, 16-year-old Linda Benson sliding one at
Waimea, comedy with the avuncular Hevs McLelland and quick glimpses
of surfing originals Duke Kahanamoku and Snowy MacAllister. |
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Five
Summer Stories
(Greg MacGillivray and Jim Freeman, 1972)

| Essential,
yes, but overrated. The original version was made after MacGillivray
and Freeman began contracting with Hollywood, and while Five Summer
Stories is as beautifully photographed, edited and scored as any
of their previous films (or much better scored, actually, with music
from the Beach Boys and Honk), the focus and passion aren't quite
there. Five Summer Stories may be a little too slick. The better
film by far -- perhaps the best surf film ever made -- is Mac-Free's
1970 effort Waves of Change (released the following year in
mainstream movie theaters under the name Sunshine Sea); right-thinking
surfers should unite in a letter-writing campaign to liberate this
one from the vaults. |
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Performers
'83/'84

| The
video that killed the surf movie. Although one of the opening scenes
featuring Rabbit Bartholomew fiddling with a car radio seems harmless
enough, the reality is that he's tuning into a whole new way of watching
surf footage. Performers wasn't the world's first surf video
-- Mickey/Natal films and Off the Wall 2 have that honor --
but this no-nonsense showcase of Quiksilver's hottest young talent
was the first video to reach the masses. Instead of hooting with the
tribe in a smoke-filled college auditorium, surfers developed a more
private relationship with the surfers on screen. In the comfort of
their own homes, they could rewind Kong's frontside layback snap,
break it down into frames, then go out and copy the move at their
local beachbreak. Same goes for Chappy Jennings' tube style at Pipe.
Or Richard Cram's cutback. The result? Less socializing, more time
spent in the basement, studying the tape. |
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Going
Surfing
(Bud Browne, 1973)

| With
Going Surfing, Bud Browne brought his surf movie career to
an end in fine style after 20 noble years of service. Here he does
an excellent job blending his old and new footage, and the perfect
rhythm he hits at the beginning of the film (a Phil Edwards profile
segues into a Gerry Lopez profile) is maintained throughout. Jeff
Hakman, Buzzy Trent, Larry Bertlemann, Greg Noll, David Nuuhiwa, Mike
Doyle, Jackie Dunn, Sam Hawk, Makaha, Honolua, Pipeline, Malibu, Waikiki
-- Going Surfing is a nice, big, bursting scrapbook featuring
a nice, big, happy surfing family. |
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Gidget
(Columbia Pictures, 1959)

| At
the end of Gidget, it's a terrible thing to watch Cliff Robertson
as the Kahuna rip apart his Malibu shack and march off to join the
workforce. But the moral point, thankfully, was completely lost to
the tens of thousands of pre-surf-magazine-era surfers who flocked
to see Hollywood's original beach flick in 1959. "Sure it was corny,"
Bob McTavish remembers. "But there were a few shots of Miki Dora surfing
and a couple of seconds of him in the corner playing a bongo drum
on the beach, and for me it was like -- that's Dora! I had a deal
going with the girl who worked at the movie theater, and I had the
schedule down perfectly. Four times a day, I'd rush over and catch
the parts I wanted to see. I knew exactly when Dora was riding those
waves, and I wasn't going to miss a second." Of course Gidget
wasn't a perfect depiction of surfing as it existed in the late '50s,
but it did catch something of the essence. Terry "Tubesteak" Tracey,
the real Malibu Kahuna, has said as much, and that has to be the final
word. |
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Apocalypse
Now
(Zoetrope, 1979)

| Colonel
Kilgore, played by Robert Duvall, has no strategic interest in taking
Charlie's Point -- deep in Vietcong-held territory -- but he napalms
the nearby village to cinders nonetheless. Why? "The waves!" Kilgore
shouts after stepping from his chopper onto the sand and fixing his
gaze to the sea while sniper bullets fly past. "Look! A good 6-foot
swell!" Not much surfing here, but the finest testament ever made
to the essentially obsessive -- even lunatic -- world-onto-itself
surfing character. And a brilliant metaphor for the Vietnam War. |
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Evolution
(Paul Witzig, 1969)

| This
is Witzig's most famous movie, thanks to 16-year-old Wayne Lynch making
his kinetic, deep-carving, high-energy "Involvement School" big-screen
debut. But believe Witzig when he says, "I've looked at [Evolution]
a few times recently, and it gives me a headache, honestly." The LSD-dipped
soundtrack, the lack of narration and almost no editing help make
Evolution -- Lynch's turns excepted -- a bum trip. Far more
palatable is Witzig's previous effort, Hot Generation, which
begins at the tail end of the longboard era and ends with Nat Young
and Bob McTavish riding their revolutionary vee bottoms in gorgeous
blue-green walls at Honolua Bay in December 1967. |
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Cosmic
Children
(Hal Jepsen, 1970)

| Cosmic
Children is an amateur production,
but a showcase for Jeff Hakman and Barry Kanaiaupuni on the North
Shore during the fabled winter of 1969. Jepsen was never a threat
to MacGillivray-Freeman -- anyone with a Bolex, a plane ticket and
10 grand could have made this film -- but he was in the right
place at the right time, and that counts for a lot. Jepsen actually
did better work in years ahead (Expression Session II, A
Sea for Yourself, Super Session), but Cosmic Children
stuck where the others didn't. It also includes some dreamscape footage
of Jay Riddle at the Ranch. |
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Surfing
for Life
(David Brown and Roy Earnest, 1999)

| Back
to the future. We should all live as long and as well as Doc Ball,
Rabbit Kekai, Eve Fletcher, Woody Brown and the rest of the seniors
featured in this soulful, uplifting documentary. Historical footage
and plenty of interviews. A bit too much reminiscing, but priceless
thoughts on surfing, physical and mental health, and aging gracefully. |
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Fluid
Drive
(Scott Dittrich, 1974)

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| Plenty
of mindless, hot surfing footage, but the best thing about this one
is the bootlegged soundtrack. Everybody in the surf flick biz stole
music in the '70s. None, however, did so with Dittrich's sense of
grand scale: in Fluid Drive we get Hendrix, the Stones, B.B.
King, Lou Reed and lots of other high-energy favorites, all ripped
right off of Dittrich's own turntable. And boy does it make a difference.
For surfers of a certain age, Barry Kanaiaupuni at Sunset, backed
by "Voodoo Chile," is about as good as it gets. |
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