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It's
been said that we don't write about surfing -- we surf. The same can be said
for film: why would any devoted surfer sit in a channel filming perfect waves
when he could be riding those perfect waves? Fortunately, not all surfers share
this purist vision. Over the years, a great many writers and filmmakers have
tried to express their stoke. And while millions of words and countless reels
of celluloid on surfing are indeed a clichéd waste, there are a few works --
either by defining an era, defining the future or simply defining surfers --
that stand the test of time. Below is our list of essential films, videos and
books that help make our sport's rich history priceless. |
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