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Before
you set out to liberate that vision of the ideal surfboard that's been
festering in your mind, you'll need a workplace, tools and safety gear
[see Video, Intro]. Most first-time shapers end up borrowing someone else's
shaping bay. This would be the ideal situation for you, as most serious
shapers have rooms with good light, climate control, an air compressor
and the custom-made, padded shaping racks that you'll need.
As far
as the tools go, don't expect anyone who shapes for a living to let you
have free reign with their tools. If you're going to work in another shaper's
bay, and have watched them work often enough that you think their routine
will form the foundation of your approach, it would be best to go out
and buy or borrow a similar set of tools.
If you
are completely on your own and plan to outfit your own shaping bay, here is
a list of the essential tools you will need: |
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1.
Power planer: the Skil 100 is the workhorse of the industry, but
is not commercially available any longer. Clark Foam sells Hitachi
planers that it has modified so the shaper can adjust the depth
of cut in a similar way to the action on the Skil 100.
2.
One or two small block planes, with new or sharpened blades. Also,
a small "spoke shave" plane will help in the curvier nose rocker
areas.
3.
One or two Surforms, with flat blades and medium or fine cut. If
possible, get two, -- both the full-length model and the shorter
version.
4.
One or two sanding blocks approximately 11 inches long, 4 inches
wide and 1 inch thick. This way a full-size sheet of sandpaper will
wrap perfectly around the block. Leave one side of the block fairly
firm-edged and, on the other, soften the edges so you will have
a more versatile tool. Balsa wood is great if you can find some.
5.
One large handsaw. I like the saws that cut on both "push" and "pull"
strokes.
6.
A T-square with 1/16-inch graduations that is clearly painted and
not just indented.
7.
One 5-pound diver's weight. Use the soft beanbag type filled with
lead shot.
8.
Calipers: these are readily made out of scrap plywood. They must
be able to reach into the center of the widest board and accommodate
boards up to 4 to 5 inches thick.
9.
Tape measure: it should be at least 12 feet long. It helps if it
displays the footage every 12 inches.
10.
One 8-foot aluminum or hardwood beam used to measure rocker.
11.
A foam rubber pad, 1/2- to 1-inch thick and cut to the size of a
sheet of sandpaper.
12.
Sandpaper: full-size sheets. 1 by 36-grit, 1 by 40-grit, 1 by 60-
or 80-grit (changed every couple of boards).
13.
Sanding screen: 80- and 100-grit. It's good to have a few sheets
of each in varying stages of wear. Like denim jeans, the softer,
worn-in sheets bend comfortably around curves more easily than the
newer, stiffer sheets. Maybe you can cadge a few worn-in sheets
of screen from your local shaper or surfboard factory.
14.
A few soft lead pencils
15.
Templates (See Step 1, Overview)
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Well,
there are the bare bones of it. If you decide to pursue the craft of shaping
regularly, you will find the need for other items, or you may decide to customize
your own.
Assuming
that you have a shaping room to use, we're almost ready to begin. If you don't
have a good workspace, you'll need to at least check out someone's shaping
bay so that you can jury rig something similar. If you are borrowing a shaping
room, take care to ensure that everything is put back in the exact spot that
you found them. Also, sweep up and bag your foam dust and cuttings. Temperaments
among shapers vary; some are fastidious and others are slobs, but either way,
they'll be fuming the next day when they're digging around in mounds of dust
trying to unearth their T-square.
I can't
work in clutter and chaos. I apprenticed under Rusty Preisendorfer, who set
up his immaculate shaping room to be like a surgery bay. Everything had its
place so you could find each tool immediately -- in the dark if need be. Rusty
brought up the example of the well-known shaper who had once done an efficiency
self-evaluation by videotaping himself as he shaped a board. He then played
the tape in fast-forward mode and watched for wasted motion or inefficiency.
What he found was that there was a fairly large chunk of time and movement
spent shambling around in search of tools.
Last,
but not least, we need to address the issue of safety equipment. You will
need a good respirator, even if you think you are just going to shape one
board. The paper filter masks are junk. If you have to use this type of mask,
get one of the heavy-duty models with an exhale purge valve, so you won't
have to breathe back in your own carbon dioxide or onion breath. Every serious
shaper has his dearly held favorite. I've found the best, lightest and cheapest
mask to be a 3M respirator, 6000 series used with the 3M 2040 model high efficiency
filters. The face pieces come in different sizes and are super light with
a good inhalation/exhalation exchange. Best of all, the filter cartridges
are cheap and light -- yet rated for uses much nastier than the fine dust
you'll encounter.
Do not
skimp on or fail to use a respirator. All those photos or videos you see of
shapers working sans mask are staged (or the guy is an idiot). Contrary to
alarmist rumormonger, polyurethane foam dust is not toxic in any way. It's
a fully reacted polymer well distanced from the initial witch's brew of chemicals.
It's just sterile dust now, but any fine dust -- organic or inorganic -- poses
a definite risk to your lungs. At the time of this writing, a new study has
shown that airborne particulate matter may even affect heart rate, to the
point where heart attacks, and not lung disease, may be the most serious health
threat posed by air pollution. Be sure to wear your mask whenever you are
shaping or handling blanks. The larger, visible bits of foam dust might be
digested or booger-fied as they get trapped in your mucous membranes, but
it is the almost invisibly fine particles that get sucked straight to your
lungs. As the gang at Clark Foam say, "It can only go in; it can't come out".
Next in
the Grandma finger-wagging department is eye and ear protection. Make it a
habit to wear some sort of eyeglasses or goggles when using power tools on
foam, or any time splinters or dust could possibly fly up and whack you in
the face. Most glasses or goggles either don't fit over the respirator, or
will often fog up if they do. I use tennis or racquetball glasses with the
nosepiece removed so it can fit over the nose part of your mask. Novice shapers
always seem to be immersed in far more dust than the expert, so heed this
warning. Dust in the eyes is probably the single biggest reason that most
would-be shapers never undertake another board.
The noise
from power tools, and even screeching sandpaper, in an enclosed room can be
horrendous. So, use a good set of headphones for ear protection. The best
ones seems to be the types used on shooting ranges.
Now all
that remains is choosing your blank, getting your templates together and barricading
yourself in the shaping bay. Your first board will probably take you four
to six hours on your own, or maybe three to four hours if you have an experienced
shaper there to help you. It's a good idea to break it up into two sessions,
giving your eyes a rest. You might want to get the board to the roughed-out
stage (Step 4) and come back the next day refreshed, albeit with raw fingers
and bloodshot eyes.
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