1. [See Video, Step 5A] Sand the deck flat and even, using the 40-grit sandpaper on your block. The idea is to clean up and adjust the two large deck panels either side of the stringer, so they begin to blend with the deck-ward rail bands.

2. Fine-tune and blend the rail bands into the desired rail shape. Use a Surform, pushing it lengthwise as if it were a block plane, and use your forefinger to trim it so you know exactly what it is cutting. If you haven't made friends with the Surform yet, you can use the sanding block instead. This won't give you the same accuracy as the properly wielded Surform, but some people are more comfortable with a sanding block. Use longer strokes, from nose to tail, and don't scrub in one spot.

3. By this time, the rails and the deck should look fairly seamless. You can adjust the rail taper and volume further with the sanding block, or with the foam-rubber pad mentioned in the tools list. Put a sheet of 80-grit sanding screen on one side, and a sheet of 40-grit sandpaper on the other. It helps to glue two sheets of sandpaper back-to-back -- it will grip the pad better. This pad should be good and stiff, yet still pliant enough to wrap over the rail curves. Work the pad back and forth from nose to tail, feeling the contours with your hand spread over the top of the pad. Don't be tempted to over-shape the rails with this pad -- just blend everything to suit your eye.

4. To eliminate the rough texture of the deck, use the sanding block with 60- or 80-grit sandpaper. It helps to put a thin cushion between the paper and the block, such as thick felt or even a few sheets of layered sandpaper. Lightly smooth out the entire deck and rail top surface, taking care not to reshape anything that doesn't require refinement. You're just trying to clean up any rough or furry areas.

5. [See Video, Step 5B] Flip the foam rubber sanding pad over so you can use the screen side. Apply this pad, hand placed over the center, as a final smoothing/blending tool to get the deck to its ready-to-glass state.

6. Place the board in the crook of the racks at a 45-degree angle so the rail is pointed up toward you. Using a single sheet of medium-worn 80-grit sanding screen, begin to blend the entire rail together. There are quite a few methods of using the screen. Keep in mind that it is a blending tool and isn't a very good shaping tool. Some people wrap it around the rail and pull it toward them, while others push it as they walk down the length of the board. You can use a corner of the screen, wrapping it down from the deck. And you can grasp the sheet with your fingers close together so that just a narrow strip of it cuts. You can experiment with all these techniques and more. The screen tends to work best as a blending implement when a larger area of the sheet bites at the same time; it can be used effectively as a shaving or Surform-like tool when a small area is applied. Using the screen is a very tough skill to learn. There is just nothing like it in any other trade or art form. Like many tools used in shaping, the sanding screen wasn't meant for this job. I think it was developed for drywall finishing. I've seen a lot of established shapers misuse screen, so don't feel bad if instant fluency eludes you.

7. Flip the board around on the racks and do the other rail. As stated before, don't freak out if things aren't perfectly symmetrical. Don't keep screening and screening until you've got a 15-inch-wide board. Get it close and call it a draw. Don't try to mess with the tucked-under bottom radius yet -- it is best to tackle that in the next, and last, step.

Sometimes you'll have to lay the board flat, deck up, and use the screen to tie together or adjust the ends of the nose or tail so everything flows together.