Registered or Premium Member? LOG IN  |  Become a Member: TRY PREMIUM FREE
CommunityWho the f&*k knows


Struggling with an odd surfing question and have no clue who to ask?
Your worries are over. Send your questions to whoknows@ surfline.com.

etiquette

How is a veteran surfer supposed to deal with all the new grommies in the water today? Surfing has gone mainstream and now virtually every middle-schooler and up wants to be a looked upon as a surfer. That's all well and fine, but the water gets dangerously full of inexperienced kids floundering in the impact zone and making those really riding waves have to dodge and weave to keep from colliding with them. I'm starting to get really angry at the "intrusion" into what used to be a sport of solitude. Thanks.
asked by Ellbee


Answer

Editor's note: Surfline's etiquette master Nick Carroll recently responded to Ellbee's question (in essence, nut up and deal with it -- surfing's a gift to be shared. Click here to read his original response); the reaction we've gotten from his answer has been overwhelming. We thought it was high time to publish a sample of your letters. Thanks to everyone who took the time to write in.

****************************************************

TRICKY NICK?

Nick Carroll should become a politician. His response to how does a veteran surfer deal with crowds was very slick. He completely danced around the issue. With surfing becoming more mainstream (and it has over the past 10 years) everyone is now a surfer. I use to paddle out at my home break in Ventura on a good day and there would be 20 -25 people out. Now there are 30 -35 people out on flat days. Forget about trying to have a non-stressful surf on a good day. It's a full-on obstacle course of ditched boards and large-eyed groms not sure how to get out of the way. I think Nick may have a different opinion if he had to limit his surf time around a regular job.

This issue will get hotter before it cools. I believe in live and let live but it's hard to focus on that principle with 4 groms ditching their boards in front of you on a 4-foot wave. -- David Eigner, Ventura, CA

*****************************************************

DUH -- OF COURSE WE CAN ALL GET ALONG

My hat's off to Mr. Carroll. It is about time some of the Expert surfers who, by the way, don't give the groms a chance to learn because they are too busy hogging all the "dog-gone" waves, get off their high horses and humble themselves and respect the right for every body to have fun and surf. It is not their decision in the first place, that someone has the right to surf, and they, too, were once groms.

We all were groms!

In the words of the wisest surfer, the Duke, "Don't hog all the "dog-gone" waves!" My prayers to all who pick up a board to slide waves on -- it can be dangerous out there so we should all try to get along and share and to look out for each other. -- Kai

*********************************************************

MATH EXPERT

Good answer to this person's dilemma. He could either reduce the crowd by one by quitting the sport, or much more appropriately teach the children well like someone most likely did for him.

Waves. Give'm, Take'm, Share'm, There is always another one. -- Ordasea

************************************************************

NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK

When I'm out surfing by the San Clemente pier (normally a crowded break) I usually try to give any newbies I can a few tips on how to surf. Most new folks, from kids on up, want to get better at surfing, and perhaps more importantly, not get pounded too badly as they learn. A suggestion or two on how to paddle or duck dive, or when to paddle for a wave seems to help a lot when someone is floundering.

You can be the greatest surfer out in the lineup, but nobody likes a dickhead who swears at beginners -- and most people have a hard time listening closely and learning from someone who is swearing at them. Remember, everyone was a new kid at some point. -- Adam Crespi

***********************************************************

PUNKS NOT DEAD

As someone who has been seriously injured and experienced several near-misses with surfers who could not hold onto their 12-foot, 40-pound, $500 longboard some retailer has told them they should learn on, I find your responses to Ellbee's question regarding how one should deal with inexperienced/dangerous surfers typical of one who would benefit from the marketing of the sport to the masses -- not for the benefit of the sport but for money. -- mohawk01

*************************************************************

ATTITUDE ADJUSTMENT

"The problem you're facing has all to do with atti
tude: your own." I disagree. There are way too many people out there who take a surf lesson, buy a new board and paddle straight into the lineup (I'm talking STRAIGHT into the lineup) and proceed to paddle for every wave they see someone else paddle for. I had a run-in with a woman at my local break, who upon seeing me paddle for a wave, spun around (she didn't really spin, it was more like kicking and bobbing) and proceeded to paddle all determined for the very wave that I was now racing to make around. As I approached her, she let go of her board, which then turned into a missile headed straight for my head. So. . . I lost the wave, almost got speared, and now I am frothing mad. I did keep my cool though, seeing that I figured she was a beginner. As I am paddling back out, she gives me the "what the hell were you thinking" look. I tell her to "do me a favor and hold on to your board please". She responds with "well if you hadn't tried to run me over I would have (held on to her board)". What followed is not something that I am particularly happy about but it involved a bunch of colorful expletives. I was out for only a 1/2 hour and now my session was shot. Was I wrong, maybe so, but was she innocent? I think not. People have to take responsibility for their actions, and if I intended to run her over, believe me, I wouldn't miss.

"shortboard or longboard it's all surfing" -- Austin-Duane Kaiu


******************************************************************

SURF SCHOOL -- NOT SO COOL

Just a quick response to your latest article: I support the groms, as I was once one as well. I do not however support the local High School approach to sending hundreds of kids out in the lineup at once. Organized surfing is great, but keep some intelligence about it. Not only do they completely cover the pier, 9th street, Goldenwest, and the Cliffs, they seem to be everywhere there is a wave during the mornings of the school year. Where do they go when school is out?

I guess my overall point is that the coaches are not teaching the kids etiquette as my father and mentors taught me. The kids even admit that the coaches encourage cutting each other off. The kids also find comfort as well as aggression when they are in numbers. This is where most go from little-groms to little-punks. Three percent of these kids rip, and I mean rip, the rest will likely let surfing go as many let soccer go. No one needs to contribute a bad attitude, not even myself.

I feel that we get our rewards from surfing by enjoying our waves as well as enjoying those we see ride when we are in the water. Think of a good tube ride or any good ride for that matter. We all want it, but watching your dad drain a tube, your friend pulling air, or seeing your young daughter stand for the first time is pretty nice.

I enjoy surfing with family, friends, and others more than I enjoy surfing in 100 percent solitude. A great day by yourself every now and then also keeps one going. However, dodge, duck, and/or cover tactics because 15 kids are taking off on the same wave (or on your wave) is plainly unsafe. Particularly when they do not even have a clue what is going on around them.

Unfortunately for the masses, bad choices by a few ruin the joy for all. I hate to say it, but until I see or hear something positive from them, I hate the local high school surfing programs. I truly feel the local programs are not contributing to the overall stoke of surfing. It may sound hypocritical here, but any time other than 6 to 7:30am, a grom is golden in my book. They know their place in the lineup and stick to it, just as we all should. The punk attitude for the most part goes somewhere else.

My children may someday be involved in the HB school surfing programs. They are still too young. If and when they do, they will for sure be leaders in etiquette and stoke. This is the quality or passion we should pass on. This is what I feel we owe to surfing.
Standard HB Resident/20yrs of surfing/3 Generations Riding -- Josh Garrison