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Who got the first (documented) barrel?
asked by Dave Manning
Walking surf encyclopedia -- and author of the Encyclopedia of Surfing, to be released Fall '03 -- Matt Warshaw, replies:
Well, a couple of choices here. Wayne Miyata got some bitchin little tubes in the original Endless Summer (filmed in either the summer of '62 or '63) at a soon-to-be-destroyed break near Ala Moana called Garbage Hole. Butch Van Artsdalen's breakthrough sessions at Pipeline took place
in late '62. Hawaiians Sammy Lee and Conrad Cahna were riding inside the tube at Ala Moana at that time, too, but I don't know if there's any documentation. Actually, Lee was featured in Severson's Angry Sea ('63), which was likely filmed in the summer of '62.
There are photos of guys from the late '50s and early '60s sort of in the tube, but usually employing the head-between-the-legs, ass-up, paddle-me-HARD stance. All the above mention guys were riding in a pretty good head-up, ass-down posture.
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